I had been roaming pretty much everywhere in the higher reaches of Uttarakhand. It was sheer delight coming across pretty windows and doors embellished with intricate carvings in remote towns. Houses in the mountains have traditionally been constructed from mud and stone because of easy availability of the same.
I kept asking people about traditional houses wherever I went. There was modernisation all around and concrete houses had seemingly replaced all old dwellings.
In the vicinity of Almora, someone spoke of ‘Kumati ki Bakhli’ and looked away into the horizon – as if it was a dream. They said its the biggest Bakhlee (Traditional Community house, also – Bakholi) in all of Kumaon and I knew I had to go and see it.
Also read : Finding Paradise in Uttarakhand
There was a refreshing smell in the dense pine forest that the road passed through. I was dropped close to the village and was supposed to walk thereafter. A small path went downhill, it was eerily silent at 1 in the afternoon. Pine resin was being collected in small cones that were attached to the trees. The aroma was sweet and intoxicating.
And then just after a turn, I spotted it. A house that seemed never ending with a beautiful view of the valley in front. So much history, heritage, culture and architecture all in one.
A forgotten valley – Trekking to Milam Glacier
As soon as I reached, an old man offered me tea. Instead, I asked them to show me the house. An entire generation poured out their nostalgia when it was known that among the 25 families that can live in this humongous structure, only 14-15 were residing there. In the golden days of yore, they said over 125 people lived together in the Bakhli.
Families practised terrace farming and grew vegetables, potatoes, grains among other fruits that grew naturally. Wheat threshing was in process. There were hardly any youngsters around, upon asking – the elders informed me that the younger generation is moving to well built concrete homes that offer more materialistic comforts and that just the poor ones were left behind to live here.
The entire structure had a single roof that was approx. 300 feet long. All the homes were identically designed and comprised of a living room cum kitchen, and one bedroom. The basement was hollow and cattle were kept along with fodder. The elders had originally designed this ‘Bakhli’ so that the entire community could be together in times of distress and help one another.
Water was aplenty with a natural source in the form of a stream that came from the mountains. A sort of temple had been constructed nearby and women washed clothes while little children played. When it was time to leave, children were returning from school and skipped through the fields to arrive at this timeless structure.
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With increasing prosperity, only time will tell how the biggest and perhaps the oldest traditional structure in Kumaon, Uttarakhand survives.
Kumati ki Bakhli lies near Kafura and Peora village on the Sitla – Mukteshwar road in Kumaon, Uttarakhand. The locals claim it to be at least 200 years old. It was originally built with mud and stone.
Also Read : All you need to know about Mukteshwar
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Sounds similar to the story of “wadas” of Pune. Many families lived together earlier. Now only those too poor to live elsewhere continue to live. Many are now replaced with “towers” in the name of redevelopment.
Yup. I used to love the ‘wadas’ of Pune too, when I studied college from that city. There’s still a friend who owns some property in Shaniwarwada. Thats sad to know, towers – ugh.
Thanks for reminding me of so many long lost memories.
Good to see that people still enjoy staying in joint families in some parts of the country! thanks for sharing 🙂
Yup, they don’t exactly love staying together though… It seemed more out of compulsion kinds, and due to lack of greener pastures.
Amazing post 😀
Long lost treasures of Pahaad.
Beautifully written – the bakhlis are more than just being the houses where these people reside . They represent intricately woven threads of love and happiness .
People leave because of lack of resources , job opportunities and education in the hills and some just perish in folklore .
A good research though .
Yay, thanks so much brother. Absolutely well said, beautiful words. I hope the government does something about this bakhli, to preserve Kumaon’s rich heritage.
pahada cheli means pahad = mountains , cheli = girl … so not a brother hahaha
Hehe, ok. Cheers 🙂
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Very nice photographed. Watching my our village. It is very sad to see the the state of development at Uttrakhand. There are only three things which can lift Uttrakhand i.e. Create Job, Create good hospitals, Create good schools, These three things will change Uttrakhand completly. Government should give incetive to the people who can relocate their businesses to Uttrakhand.