A Day in Ajmer – What to see?

Although the crowds can get too much to handle at times, I visited Dargah Sharif (First time) on a weekday and the chaotic experience was peaceful for the heart. The sheer display of faith is mind boggling and calming. My next time was a VIP visit and much smoother experience – I shall write a separate blog post for my experiences at Dargah Sharif.

2. Taragarh Fort

Strategically located, Ajmer was a very important town and the 12th Century Fort of Taragarh was established by the town’s founder Ajaypal Chauhan.

It is in a crumbling state these days but still has fine views of Ajmer from top with the Ana Sagar Lake providing a beautiful backdrop. Taragarh Fort is only 3-4 kms away from Ajmer and can be accessed by shared taxis or by a 90 minute walk from the Dhai Din Ka Jhopda. There is a locally revered shrine at Taragarh Fort and pilgrims at Dargah Sharif usually pay their respects here too.

3. Dhai Din Ka Jhopda

Dhai din ka Jhopda, literally ‘two-and-a-half-day hut’, is unquestionably the oldest surviving monument in Ajmer. It was originally built in 660 AD as a Jain Temple and was converted into a Sanskrit School in 1153. Locals claim that the name has struck because it was built in 2 & 1/2 days, but it seems more like a legend than truth. The Dhai Din Ka Jhopda is built into a hillside and is a mosque complex. The entrance for the same is hardly 400m away from Dargah Sharif and this is a relatively calmer place compared to the cacophony of crowds at the Dargah.

It is said to have been attacked by Mohammed of Ghori who converted it into a mosque. The dazzling feature of Dhai Din Ka Jhopda is the exquisite seven arched screen in front of the hall. Each arch is different and there are delicate and elaborate carvings on the numerous columns.

Read : A photo story from Pushkar : Away from the fair

I was really surprised to see damaged Hindu motifs of Jain & Hindu gods and goddesses on the pillars and ceilings (Evidence of the Sanskrit School). I found the mosque’s most beautiful feature to be the bands of Islamic calligraphy that decorate its seven-arched façade. 

4. Akbar Fort & Museum

This was constructed in 1570 and was originally named Daulat Khana by Akbar. When the British were in power, they maintained a large garrison inside the fort. The Fort is important from a historical point of view, in 1660 the British got a toehold in India when Sir Thomas Roe, a representative of the British East India Company, met Emperor Jahangir and gained his permission to establish the first British factory at Surat, at this fort.

It is a huge structure and these days houses a Government Museum with a collection of rock inscriptions, stone statues and sculptures dating from 8th to 12th century. I was particularly mesmerised with the beautiful doors and architecture of the central building inside the fort. Also on display in the museum are a collection of old weapons and also miniature paintings of Rajasthan.

5. Ana Sagar Lake & Baradaris

The Ana Sagar is an artificial lake that spreads far and wide with the town of Ajmer. It was laid out in the twelfth century and is worth a visit to see the line of elegant white-marble pavilions called baradaris, or summer shelters. These were built in the 17th Century by Shah Jahan on the lake’s banks, in a garden by the name of Daulat Bagh.

I was lucky to be at the baradari at sunset time, a cool breeze greeted me. Although I didn’t find out if bathing in the Ana Sagar was sacred to Muslims, it was quite surprising to see many people taking a dip in the tranquil looking waters.

6. Nasiyan (Red Temple) or Soni Ji ki Nasiyan

Locally called ‘red temple’, Nasiyan was built in 1865 by a rich merchant. While the building is totally unassuming from the outside, when I ascended the stairs to the second floor I was taken aback by the sheer grandeur and golden opulence. It seemed like a fantasy world.

Inside the open-for-all museum – the Swarna Nagari, there was a breathtaking display that filled the huge hall with tiny gilded golden figures celebrating scenes from Jain mythology of Rishabha (or Adinath), the first Jain tirthankara. One glass hall also shows concept of the ancient world, with 13 continents – the golden city of Ayodhya complete palaces, chariots, ships, armies and people. Locally called Soni Ji ki Nasiyan.

Check : Being a tourist in my own city – Inside Jaipur’s Hawa Mahal

Admission to the main temple (which is in beautifully painted red) alongside is allowed only for Jains. I have tried twice and have still not seen what lies inside. Although I could hardly understand what the work of art meant but the sheer scale of the display was spellbinding.

Food in Ajmer

Ajmer is famous for its food (veg and non-veg) and a particular dish called Kadi Kachori. The locals suggested the best Kadi Kachori in Ajmer to be of Shankar Chat Bhandar – I acquiesce, after having devoured many kachoris and sweets after numerous visits now. I didn’t particularly like the food at Honeydew Restaurant that is a local favourite from old times.

There is another restaurant (the name of which I forget) – out of four places that I’ve tried in Ajmer – only one has been able to fulfil expectations. And it was a local acquaintance who took me there. I shall update this article when I am reminded of that place’s name.

Also : 5 must eat places in Jaipur

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I would love to know your thoughts on this guide sort of an article. I mostly pen down travelogues from my journeys to obscure locations otherwise. As a full time travel blogger, this is an attempt to let the world know that I have also travelled like a tourist (no pun intended!) and know what an average tourist wants.

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