The human mind sure works in an inexplicable manner! I have just stepped into my home in Jaipur; back after spending more than 2 weeks travelling to remote regions in wintry Ladakh and Spiti is on my lips.
Incidentally, I was lucky to travel to Spiti in the winter of 2016 (after having travelled numerous times in the summers). As more and more Indians take to travel, it is getting increasingly difficult to find the soul of a place in the ‘best season’ to visit. I was also keen to see how people lived in the extreme cold.
There is an untold thrill of visiting Spiti, first in the summer and then in the harsh and cold winters. The common thought is that Spiti valley is inaccessible in the winters. It is not so; some parts may be out of bounds but the road from Shimla to Kaza is open throughout the year.
In fact, winter may be a perfect time to see local life in Spiti as it has existed for centuries.
Winter in Spiti is extremely harsh and temperatures are known to sometimes fall to -40 degrees Celsius. Spiti in the winters is frigid and there is no running water in the taps.
How to Travel to Spiti Valley in the Winters?
Transportation & Route
The only way to reach Spiti in the winter is by road from Shimla via the NH-22 highway through Kinnaur. Rohtang Pass and Kunzum La are both closed in the winters, making travel from Manali an unviable option. I first reached Shimla and then Narkanda before making it to Reckong Peo (District Headquarters of Kinnaur). It was a great idea to acclimatise to the cold and altitude of Peo before reaching the unbearable cold of Kaza at 3700m.
Read : 7 roadtrips for adventure junkies in India
A solitary daily bus runs daily from Reckong Peo to Kaza and tickets can’t be booked in advance. I rushed to the bus stand to make sure of getting a seat in the 7:30 am bus. This bus alone is the lifeline of the entire region and is entrusted with delivering couriers, posts and newspapers to villages of upper Kinnaur & Spiti that lie along the way.
Shared taxis also ply sometimes from Rampur to Kaza (They charge 1000/- per seat and complete the journey in 12 hours. There were no details of the same on the internet and I could only make the return journey from Kaza to Rampur via this mode.
Weather Conditions and Important Precautions
In retrospect, it was a great decision when I decided to halt at Reckong Peo before marching forward to Spiti. The air in Spiti is frigid and there is little oxygen in the air at high altitudes. It helped for the body to get used to the cold and lesser oxygen.
Lessons of a long winter trip to Ladakh helped too and I made sure every part of my body was covered before venturing in the chill of the winter air. I spent most of my time in the kitchens of the homestays I stayed at! Discuss with a doctor about starting a 3 day course of Diamox (to prevent AMS) before starting on your journey to Spiti in the winter.
It is recommended to walk small distances and consume food at regular quantities in order to keep the body warm. Drinking butter tea and water at regular intervals was my mantra to stay hydrated. I also like dark chocolate and nuts and always use them in the winters.
Read : Top Ten Spiti Experiences
There is no water supply in toilets as the pipes are entirely frozen. Traditional Spitian dry compost toilets are the only choice in most places in winter in Spiti. After dinner, I made sure to go to the loo only once before sleeping and not in the middle of the night when the cold air can mess up things.
Carrying sufficient cash with you is advised because the SBI ATM in Kaza may or may not work. Life in Spiti valley can come to a standstill due to temperatures falling in December and January.
Also read : Practical Tips for Winter Travel in Ladakh
Ways to Travel Within Spiti
There are almost zero buses that ply in the winters in Spiti. The only possible mode of transportation is to travel with locals in shared taxis (campers or sumo), that ply depending on the amount of snow and number of passengers.
Shared taxi was my preferred way of travel too, and the locals made sure I felt safe in their company.
It is also possible to hire SUVs ( Innova or xylo ) for travel in winter in Spiti, even though the taxi fares turn out to be quite expensive. Travelling with locals ensures there is always the comfort of staying in a homestay in the bitter cold.
I was lucky to find a shared taxi for Losar that left from Kaza bus stand. As suggested by locals, I had verbally booked a seat in advance for the same. There were also shared taxis for Pin Valley and other small villages in Spiti near the bus stand. It is best to ask locals for help and recommendations.
A big tip for winter travel in Spiti for budget travellers is to not have any fixed plans; it helps immensely to make impromptu plans with locals. In case of heavy snowfall, the locals cover distances to their villages on foot, and sometimes that may be the only possible way of travel in Spiti in winter.
Read : Hitchhiking in a truck : Stories from Nakee La
Worthwhile sights and villages to visit in Winter in Spiti
Roads to the high altitude villages of Demul, Langza, Kibber, Hikkim, Komic are sometimes open. It is also possible to visit Lhalung, Gue village, Dhankar & Losar if there are shared taxis plying. Going to Pin Valley can be a dicey affair because it is located on a different route and there may be chances of getting stuck. I was keen on going but the locals suggested I shouldn’t!
Remember to always check with locals in Kaza and nearby villages about the prevailing weather and road conditions for the places you are heading to.
For a guide about places to visit in Spiti – Check A comprehensive guide to Spiti
Accommodation in Spiti in the Winters
Most guesthouses, homestays and hotels are closed for the winter in Spiti. There are a few places open, and it is best to ask locals regarding the best options to stay. Prices per person including food will range from 500-1500 Rupees for winter accommodation in Spiti.
In Kaza : Sakya Abode – owned by Tsering. Enquire at homestays near the bus stand in Kaza, a few of them are open in the winters too.
Langza, Hikkim, Dhankar, Demul, Komic, Lhalung, Tashigang : Tanzi Homestay in Langza is open. Anmo homestay in Lhalung. Komic Gompa in Komic. Most families in these villages live year round and thereby the possibility of homestays to stay.
Kibber : Norling Homestay is open in the winters. Kibber is a big village and families live there throughout the year, that means other homestays are open too. It may also be possible to persuade the monks to let you stay at Ki Monastery, even in the winter cold!
Losar : Samson Guest House near the police check post in Losar village. It was dark when I reached Losar and had to literally plead with the family to let me stay.
Tabo : 2-3 homestays open near the monastery even in the winters.
In Pin Valley : Tara Homestay in Mudh. Possible to stay in a homestay in some of the villages – Kungri, Gulling, Sagnam and Mudh.
With regards to food : Meals are available at the homestays and will be a basic affair. Please make sure you don’t waste anything, food is scarce in the winters in Spiti.
Check : A Comprehensive Guide to Kinnaur
On the road, good food is available at small dhabas in Narkanda, Reckong Peo, Spello, Tapri, Hoorling and places where the bus stops.
I had carried emergency food in the form of almonds, dates, ORS juice, dark chocolate etc. for eating at regular intervals.
Packing list
Sunglasses : I had forgotten carrying mine and was nearly snow blind in Losar when the villagers had to hurriedly send me back to Kaza to avoid further damage.
Warm Clothing : Dressing in layers is advised for both the upper and lower parts of the body. I wore a thermal inner, tee shirt, a sweater, and 3 jacket(s). A warm thermal lower is required. Covering your fingers from the extreme cold winds is essential with good quality gloves.
Shoes & Socks : Needless to say, this is one of the most important things to keep in mind for travel to Spiti in the winters. Shoes should be ice and snow proof and should have good traction for walking on slippery frozen surfaces.
Also read : Solo travelling to the last frontier of Saach Pass
Have any questions about travelling to Spiti in winter? Go ahead and ask me. Happy Travels.
Your’e a good man! Maybe I shall plan this next winter
😀 Thanks! Best of luck for this and more adventures.
Thanks!
hey Rajiv, we are 4 people coming from Hyderabad to explore spiti ..in the week of Jan 22 2018.Any chances of we joining you
Hey Prasanth. In principle, you are welcome. But I am grounded between Jan and March. Sonny boy has pre boards and boards till then
Hey rajiv… Myself too from hyderabad, right now in delhi. I hope i can catch u up in the trip.
My ph & whatsapp no : 8121138290
RaghuRam
@Prashant…can u contact me to my number i given above .or on raghucharan999@gmail.com
Hi Rajiv,
Can I have your contact details.
Regards,
Prasanth
Your pictures make Spiti look like a dream in winters. A very informative piece of work. Thanks for sharing.
Very very glad you like it. Thanks for your appreciation. Shubham
hey Shubham, would like to talk with you regarding the same trip in coming January 3rd week. could you email me your contact details prasanthdp@gmail.com
RESPECT RESPECT and RESPECT. To travel in such harsh conditions despite being a city dweller, commands this respect. It looks like paradise. Love it!
Terribly sorry for replying so late D. My heart remains in the small towns that I have lived in for very long and it is the people of the mountains who make it warm. You are too kind. Happy happy with this appreciation
The ice-covered valley…indeed looks like a paradise!
It really was Maniparna. Although I was quite surprised to see less snow and may someday return for the entire winter experience. Wishes! 🙂
Nice to read an extraordinary place to be visited in winter! Useful tips for the future traveller!! I had been to Reckang Peo and Kalpa, a decade back in October and November months. I had seen Kaza bus innumerable times. I was so unlucky I didn’t visit Lahul and Spiti during that time! In fact Spiti Valley will be a dream place to visit in winter! Hats off to you for undertaking such an adventurous trip!
That is wonderful to hear P Perumal Samy. I believe that must have been quite an experience, back then! Hope you can make it someday, for Spiti in winter. Thanks for the appreciation 🙂
Reblogged this on The Path Untravelled.
Amazing !
We are also heading to spiti this weekend. Lots of snow fall recently.
Will share my experience soon.
Lovely. Have a great time and tell me how it goes!
game to travel this path in the coming January 2018?we also want to join …please reply to prasanthdp@gmail.com
How was your experience man? Any suggestions?
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Hey Guys,
This is shiva from chennai, I wanted to Visit Spiti during last week of december (2017) my friends are too scared to join me. I’m looking for some company, please inbox me if interested spitzer.knight@gmail.com
dude we are planning January 19-28…wanna join..prasanth from hyderabad prasanthdp@gmail.com. will appreciate people with some previous experience can join to guide us
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Hi
I am going to visit Spiti in Dec’17. Is it okay to visit Spiti in late December. How many days it will take to cover the entire journey ? As I already been to Nathula and Zero Point in month of december. Can you pl let me know the weather situation of Spiti is same as Narula or not ?
Hi
I am planning to visit Spiti this winter .
As I gone through your blog, it was mentioned that you took Diamox. Is it necessary to take those medicine. And which mode of transportation you took to travel Shimla-ReckongPeo.
Hello. I do not necessarily advocate the use of diamox in dealing with AMS. Slow acclimatisation is better than using medicines. I took a bus from Shimla to Reckong Peo.
Happy journey 🙂
need some guidance..can you help me with your number emailed to prasanthdp@gmail.com
Hi,
We are planning to visit Spiti/Shimla this November End (24th Nov – 2nd Dec).
The things which you mentioned in your post would be the same during this time or it would be much smoother ?
Also could you let me know if Manali/Kasol would be better or Spiti/Shimla?
Thanks
Hey Dewang. During November end, there is generally no snow in Spiti. For other places like Manali / Kasol, you can check my other posts on these places.
Happy travels.
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The information is great 🙂
planning spiti trip between Jan 20-28 from shimla . and we have return flights booked from delhi on 28 night….does that make any sense? t. Need some guidance on the trip and stop points and if there is any one who can join us that will be great. we are a grp of 4 guys from hyderabad. prasanthdp@gmail.com
Lovely this was. A great help. Thanks Shubham:)
Hey! Thanks Timssy. All the best for the journey 🙂
Very Very helpful. 🙂 I am planning on a solo trip from chennai to spiti between nov 30-dec3. Can you give me any specific advice more than the above mentioned?
Thanks man. Glad you found it helpful. Hope you had a nice journey! Look forward to seeing the pictures.
Is it safe to visit reckong peo in winters in the month of January last week or feburary days in first week of this year (2018) “route -jalandhar,rupnagar,shimla,rampur,sarahan,sangla and last reckong peo on royal enfield 350cc with sharing partner” .
Visiting Peo should not be a problem at all, unless there is a freak weather condition and it snows a lot. Good luck and happy journey 🙂
Hey Great blog!
I Look forward to going to Kibber in early march this year to make an attempt at the Kanamo peak. What are your thoughts on this? How many layers of clothing is advised? Considering the fact that the trek attempt from kibber would take 3 days (including one day reserve) how many days should I set apart for Shimla to Shilmla?
Really appreciate your help!
I Look forward to going to Kibber in early march this year to make an attempt at the Kanamo peak. What are your thoughts on this? How many layers of clothing is advised? Considering the fact that the trek attempt from kibber would take 3 days (including one day reserve) how many days should I set apart for Shimla to Shilmla?
Good luck for the same, Siddharth.
Shubhammansingka,
What is your thought about the ability to do Kanamo? Will it be possible? I do not see much information on Kanamo in the winter. I’d like to follow your mentioned itinerary, Peo, Tabo, Kaza, Kibber, Kanamo, Kibber, Kaza, Peo. Will local guides be available in Kibber?
Thank you for giving us a very informative blog on Spitian Winters
I have not attempted Mt. Kanamo and hence no detail on the same. Thanks for checking and good luck for your journey.
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that was a great piece of information. but, I am planning to drive from Shimla to Kaza in December.. any information or tips on that would be useful
Thanks Naren. You can check the other posts of Spiti for more information.
Amazing shubham bhai.. Do review my log 🙂
https://raachotrekkers.com/spiti-snow-leopard-trail-winter-in-kinnaur-spiti-raacho-trekkers/
Thanks bhai ji !! Shall surely check it out.
In which month did you travel and what was the temperature that time? Are there food outlets in kaza? During December end, will kaza be a lonely place or there wud many local people around who stay there?
Hope you had a nice trip, Ganesh. Just checked this comment now.
Recong peo to kaza in the month of march through bus…is hrtc bus available in march
Please tell me, is there any possibilities to travel to KAZA in winter’s? I heard like Shimla to KAZA via reckong peo road will be open throughout the year in all seasons. Is it true? Please some one tell me if you know about that route…please. I am very confusing after reading so many different types of articles in internet. Please some one tell me the actual thing.
Hey Sanjay, please check my other blogs and you will know that the road is open even in the winters. Happy travels 🙂
It was great reading your blog.
Hello,
I would like to know how to get some local information, Since in 2020 with pandemic, I believe some of the things might have changed. I am planning to goto Key Monastery during Nov – Dec but the relevant information is minimal. So if you can help with some local contact that you have, which can be reached to get money information. That would be great
Hi Mahesh. Hope you had a great trip.
Indeed a Very helpful blog .
I am planning a trip in November end to early December. Would like to hear your opinion and experiences which I hope will clear out my quarries before I final take this trip . Would it be possible for you to share your email address,so that I can write to you.
Thank You
Thanks, Somreeta. Hope you had a nice trip.
Sir I want to visit spiti in winter,i am solo ,please suggest me budget and itinarry
Hey Sundram, you can make a plan with the information detailed in the winter Spiti blog.