A Travel Guide to Pondicherry’s Attractions

Over the past few years of my travelling days, I had barely explored South India beyond the obvious and in 2017 I set about correcting it. It was the last week of September and I arrived at Chennai airport at the stroke of noon. I wanted to head straight to Pondicherry from the airport itself. The searing humidity of Chennai wasn’t helping at all and I began sweating profusely after exiting the airport premises. Taxi drivers quoted 1200-1500 Rupees for Pondicherry while others suggested I go to the Metro Station (CMBT) and then to Koyambedu to catch a direct Volvo bus to Pondicherry.

I figured that more than comfort time is of the essence for me to reach Pondicherry and therefore just kept walking and didn’t respond to the taxi guys. In the process, I stumbled upon the easiest process of reaching Pondicherry from Chennai airport. Exit the airport, take a right – After walking approx. 500m take a left on the road, there will be a local railway station. Take a 10 rupee ticket to Perangulathur station that is 3-4 stops away from the boarding station. After exiting from the Perungalathur train station, once you get out cross the road – there should be a bus station visible. From here local (Tamil Nadu State Transport Corporation) SETC buses run regularly to Pondicherry via the ECR road and also the other route. I remember the bus ticket cost me only 85 Rupees.

Tip : In the local train, eat the local samsa (Samosa) Tamil Nadu style! The restaurant adjoining the bus station near Perangulathur serves tasty thali meals and I highly recommend it for people looking to move onward to Pondicherry.

I was supposed to travel with a partner but she dropped out at the last moment and that meant I had a heritage hotel booking all to myself. After reaching Pondicherry, I bargained with an auto and paid 40 Rupees to reach the hotel located in the White Town or the French Quarter.

I was pleasantly surprised at my first glimpse of Pondicherry and went walking just before sunset. There were many cafés serving fresh croissants and espresso coffee in this former French colony also called Puducherry or Pondi. Everyone seemed to be living a laid-back life making me feel that Pondicherry is the type of charming seaside town where one arrives for a weekend visit and ends up wishing they could stay for longer! Since most people have jobs and can rarely afford longer vacations apart from weekends and extended weekends, I thought about putting this brief guide of tourist attractions; with personal stories and anecdotes.

Read : Danish Delight in India – Tranquebar (Tharangambadi)

A Handy Guide of Places to Visit in Pondicherry  

The Portuguese arrived in Pondicherry in 1521, presumably with the purpose of trading in spices on the Coromandel Coast. After that the Dutch and Danish traders followed, but it was the French who purchased Pondicherry in the late 17th century. They ruled it for more than 200 years until Pondicherry was assimilated into India in 1954 as a Union Territory. The French were enamoured with the seaside feel of Pondicherry and constructed many buildings across this small town still retains its French élan. Pondicherry was established in 1674 by François Martin, who was the first director of the French East India company. Other French colonies in India include Mahe in Kerala, Yanam in Andhra Pradesh and Karaikal in Tamil Nadu.

Sri Aurobindo Ashram

Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple

Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple is one of Pondicherry’s most popular tourist attraction. The temple is located at a walking distance away from Sri Aurobindo Ashram. The temple is dedicated to Ganesha, the elephant-headed Hindu god. The exterior of the temple is huge and stunning with statues of various gods and goddesses lining the walls. Once you enter inside, the grandeur of the splendid friezes on the walls is immaculate with chiseled carvings. The Manakula Vinayagar temple has been in existence before the French occupation of Pondicherry; thereby making it one of the oldest buildings in Pondicherry.

Pondicherry Musuem

The Pondicherry Museum has a great collection of local historic memorabilia and collectibles, and is housed in a 17th-century colonial mansion that was once occupied by a French administrator. Among other things, the museum features a collection of stone sculptures, a bronze gallery, different carriages. There are also artefacts from nearby excavations around Arikamedu (an erstwhile seaport) that show that Romans traded in this region as early as the 1st century BC.

Read : Mahabalipuram – Of Historical Sights and Beach Delights

The Pondicherry Government Museum is located on Ranga Pillai Street, opposite Government Place. The archeological collection includes Neolithic remains from Arikamedu, a few stone sculptures from 6th to 8th century and Buddhist stone sculptures from 10th Century, and paintings. Also on display is some French furniture and artefacts from local houses that must have been used during the French occupation.

I had no idea about Pondicherry Museum and was lucky to stumble upon it on a turn on the rented scooty, and the timing was just right too as it was already evening and the museum would have shut down in some time.

French Quarter or White Town Heritage Walk

Many Indian tourists come to Pondicherry mostly to explore the ‘French’ architecture. The charming French Quarter, the area around the beachfront has wide boulevards, road names starting with rue, bilingual signs, colourful doors and windows on prettily-designed buildings, and gorgeous colonial villas. In the White Town area, even the policemen continue to wear the military style caps, known as kepis from De Gaulle’s time.

Church of our Lady of the Angels

Also called Eglise De Notre Dame Des Anges, this church was built in the later half of the 19th Century. It was by sheer luck that I ended up at this sublime church while trying to search for Sri Aurobindo Ashram. Church of our Lady of the Angels is painted in mellow pink and cream colour and is located on Dumas Streeet. Among other interesting details about this church, the limestone interior was made using eggshells in the plaster.

I was surprised to see a Statue of Joan of Arc in the Church premises. This Church is also known as the Domas Church and it boasts of a rare oil painting of Our Lady of the Assumption, which was gifted by the French Emperor Napoleon III. It is also the only Church at present in India that has a Sunday Mass in all three languages; French, English and Tamil.

Yoga in Pondicherry

There are a few yoga ashrams and centres around Pondicherry and it is slowly becoming popular as a yoga destination in South India, courtesy of the laid-back vibe surrounding Auroville.

Festivals in Pondicherry

International Yoga Festival is held in January in Pondicherry when many yoga teachers from across India converge on Pondicherry and yoga classes are held.

Bastille Day on 14th July is celebrated with much French fanfare and customs.

How to reach Pondicherry from Chennai?

The distance from Chennai to Pondicherry is around 155 kms and generally takes around 3 hours to cover even via public transport. Tamil Nadu (SETC) transport buses are quick and ply on the scenic East Coast Road (ECR) and the alternate highway too. For Volvo buses, Koyambedu stop is said to be the best. If one is looking to travel to Pondicherry from Chennai airport, some Volvo buses also stop at Guindy. For travellers looking to find the fastest way to reach Pondicherry from Chennai airport, I have already detailed it in the start of this article.

For those looking to travel to Auroville, STS (Auroville transport) runs shared taxis from Chennai airport to Auroville. Travellers in groups may find it easier to rent a cab from Chennai to Pondicherry, as the price per person can be compared to the Volvo prices.

Stay – Neemrana de L’Orient