‘Go away if you aren’t going to buy any charas,’ said the guesthouse owner and frowned upon us. We were quite stunned to hear that in this 2000 year old hamlet. 

For years I had read about the famous (or infamous) Parvati Valley and had never ventured there alone. This time in October-November 2014 I found a travel partner in Manali and we instantly decided to explore a little bit of this paradise. We are able to hitch a ride till Kullu in a little pickup vehicle and absolutely love the breezy ride.

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It is a lucky day and we get a bus ride to Bhuntar, the point where we leave the highway and enter the mysterious environs of the Parvati Valley. Bhuntar is also the place where the confluence of the Beas & Parvati river is seen, just beneath the bridge from where the road diverges. The tricky road keeps going up and I can’t help but admire the driving skills of these people.

The air is fresh and carries a distinct fresh aroma of nature. Snow melt of the glaciers has decreased, it is already November and the water in the river below is a shade of beautiful green. It is a narrow road and the bus sways from side to side giving us some scary yet unforgettable moments. The bus carries us in the nondescript town of Jari on the main road and we try to hitch another ride to the road head to Malana.

Clear waters of the Parvati River

It is one-thirty in the afternoon and we realise that very few vehicles ply on the recently built road to Malana. Earlier a difficult trek meant five hours were required to reach Malana; it is only a two hour trek now. Lunch is had at one of the cleaner dhabas in Jari. We have left our bags in Manali and are carrying only daypacks with water bottles. There is a bus to Malana that leaves from Jari at 4:30 in the afternoon, we are told. After that it is two hours of walking, the villagers tell us.

There are dangerous looking people on the bus. Work on a power project on the roaring Malana river has resulted in a road being built in the village famously known as the oldest democracy in the world. Lonely Planet had written described vacations in Parvati Valley as deadly – lending it a notorious feel. That prejudiced bent of mind had meant we were wary of the locals even before reaching Malana.

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The bus climbs precariously on steep turns and is manoeuvred with skilful deftness. The road ends abruptly and we are asked to get down along with the two other people remaining on the bus. It is already dark when we start walking. The trail first descends to a bridge for us to cross the roaring waters of the Malana river. The gentleman and his kid are also going to Malana.

He tries to scare my partner ‘Never come to Malana in the dark. People fall in the river and their bodies are never found.’ We have heard of these talks on the internet and don’t know what to make of it. I try and keep walking at a faster pace than him. As soon as the ascent starts, my partner is tired and that ensures more awkward conversations with the cunning faced middle-aged guy.

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Notice on Jamlu Devta Temple in Malana

Just in the nick of time when the talk is getting gruff and my partner is losing her patience, a phone rings – Its her mom and that calms everything down. I ask the man to speak less and tell him that we will talk less so that we can gather our breath and reach early. My partner tells him that our friends had called and they are on their way tomorrow to Malana and the Dragon Guest House guys have already been informed of our arrival.

We have a spring in our step even though the arduous climb slows down my partner. It is a pleasant surprise when we see two village kids walk down, say hello to us and make instant friendship. They are happy to carry her bag and guide us to their village. 

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Obscured by snowy valleys on both sides, winters in Malana can get really cold


We try to give him 50 Rupees for the kind gesture but he refuses. An attempt to shake his hand and thank makes him run, we are untouchables in the land of the pure. The stories we had heard were true; the villagers didn’t let anybody touch them. Fittingly, the guest houses are all located on top of the village. They don’t want outsiders meddling with their daily affairs.

The night feels pretty cold at the altitude of 3000m where Malana is located. Our room for 200 Rupees has bare minimum necessities but is without a bathroom. We go down to have food and are ushered into a closed room with psychedelic paintings and neon lights. There are six other people there and it resembles a smoking den.

Surreal landscapes beside the flowing river

The smell of charas is making me high and intoxicated. ‘Boom’, they utter before lighting up and gently touch the chillum on their forehead as a mark of reverence to Lord Shiva. There are 4 Indian Canadian guys & girls, and two middle aged Spanish men who are all engrossed in the meticulous process of cleaning the stone in the chillum. They explain to us the ins and outs of marijuana and its benefits. Enormous amounts of charas known as Malana Ice and Malana Cream is being smoked. A happy sounding genre of trance plays. Everybody looks at each other and laughs in oblivion. 

Dinner is half cooked vegetables floating in boiled water for the princely sum of 300 rupees for 2 people. We are told that the Malana charas is some of the best in the world and is known the world over, even in the legal weed-capital-of-the-world Amsterdam. Malana Cream’s high oil content commands a high price in the market.

Traditional headgear worn by the Malanese women

We call it a night and go upstairs to our room to gaze at the moon that is shining on this ancient village, overlooking the snowy mountains in the far distance. In a freak accident in 2008 a fire had broken out and majority of houses in Malana were burnt and the architecture was totally destroyed. The night is chilly and we sleep somehow with the promise of hearing stories the next day.

We wake up and are amazed to see the smoking gang still going strong in the same room. The whole village is lazing around the open courtyard in front of Temple Jamlu (The deity of Malana). A board hangs ‘Do not touch’ among the horns of wild animals. We buy some candies from a shop and are asked to keep the money on the floor for him to collect. The Malanis consider all non-Malanis to be inferior and therefore untouchable.


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The locals claim Malana to be the oldest democracy in the world and they didn’t recognise the constitution of India till very recently. They have their own laws and the village constitution solved all disputes in their own unique and mysterious way. Nowadays they have a mobile network and kids are increasingly being sent to the government school to study. 

We hear stories of many legends in this village nestled high among inaccessible valleys. The green eyes and sharp features of the locals lay claim to being descendants of the Aryan army of ‘Alexander – The great’ of Greece fame. In 4th Century BC, some soldiers while returning to their homeland liked Malana so much that they decided to settle down here. This is also supported by the local folklore of some old wooden houses having soldiers carved on them. 

Shiva’s prasad, we are told 😛

Another legend narrated by an elder villager goes that – Emperor Akbar’s tax gatherers charged tax from a man in Delhi who had been given the gold piece from Jamlu’s treasury in Malana. Akbar was immediately struck with leprosy, he sent his men with the piece of gold and many images presented in gold and silver. Thereupon Jamlu Devta was pleased and Akbar was cured. Akbar never collected any tax from the village of Malana thereafter. Every year this incident is enacted at Malana in the festival of Fagli and the images are brought out from inside Jamlu Devta’s temple.

A birds eye view – Modern houses have replaced the Kathkuni style of architecture in Malana

The Malanese speak a language that has no script. Hardly 1000 odd people understand the language of Kanashi which supposedly has Tibetan roots. Upon interaction with the people of Malana, I show them pictures of the rumoured Aryans of Ladakh from the villages of Dah, Biamah, Garkhun & Darchiks. They exclaim that those people may be the related and perhaps they could understand each other’s languages. 

The village is an enigmatic as we had heard. Everyone smokes cannabis openly and it grows everywhere in wild abandon. Little kids try to sell it to us on our way back. We encounter herds of goat and sheep and the women accompanying them are wearing bright green nail paint. They happily wave to us; away from the village without the rules that forbid them to interact with outsiders.

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She spoke fluent hindi and loved interacting with us outside the boundaries of the village

For people interested in knowing more about Malana – I strongly recommend watching these two documentaries.

1. Malana: Globalization of a Himalayan Village and 2. Malana : A Lost Identity

The recent developments of The Malana Hydro Power Plant have brought development to the region but also a loss of culture. Maybe it is a ploy to keep the name going and bring the riches of the cannabis cultivation to themselves.

We shall never know. 







39 responses to “Winds of change in Malana”

  1. pc73 Avatar

    WOW! This place seems so mysterious!! take me there, will you?

    1. shubhammansingka Avatar

      Thanks dear, great idea. You must go and experience it while you can! Cheers

    1. shubhammansingka Avatar

      Thanks Mukul. Glad you like it.

  2. magiceye Avatar

    A fascinating read!! Thank you!!

  3. Aniñdita Avatar

    Nice post.it would be very interesting to visit this place

    1. shubhammansingka Avatar

      Certainly. Its a good time to go now. 🙂 Thank you Anindita.

  4. chillkaroyaar5 Avatar

    Gr8 Read with Lovely Pics Shubham !!

    1. shubhammansingka Avatar

      Glad you like it Pooja. 🙂

  5. Richa Gupta Avatar

    Beautiful story, Shubham! I have mixed feelings on cannabis business, specially in this part of Himachal. Just like Goa, mafia controls it. So, I really wonder how much/ what do villagers actually make out of this. Is there anything actually left from the past that is uncorrupt and untouched by drug mafia and charas-hungry tourists?

    1. shubhammansingka Avatar

      Thanks Richa. The villagers have also become smart these days. Hamlets and towns in other valleys untouched by media and tourists continue to live as they have for centuries.

  6. myalwarblog Avatar

    Nice post Shubham. Thanks for sharing your incridible journey with us…

    1. shubhammansingka Avatar

      Yay! It really was an incredible experience.

  7. Jayanti Pandey Avatar
    Jayanti Pandey

    I wish I had found your blog before I went to Kasol. Dang! Now I will have to go again. But then, that is part of travel isn’t it? To go back to the same place and yet find it new. Great posts Shubham. Read a few. Will be back for more.

    1. shubhammansingka Avatar

      Yes, so true. Thanks for the appreciation, Jayanti. I like this place when its bereft of people and the waters have become a trickle in the winters.

  8. urbanrabbit9 Avatar

    Great post Shubham. I have always wanted to explore this place and I will hopefully go there with my friend for some research purpose. Were you able to get to the cannabis farms?

    1. shubhammansingka Avatar

      Thanks 🙂 Tip : Off season is the best season; and haha, secrets like these should not be revealed here 😛

      1. urbanrabbit9 Avatar

        Shubham, when is the off season?

  9. […] right now and my brain cannot remember if this is a photograph of Beas river or Parvati river or Malana river. It was a moment when time floated aimlessly and I couldn’t care less where I was going. All […]

  10. Pratik Avatar

    Hey Shubham, I’m planning a trip to Manali-kasol next month, I need guide about traveling there. Thanks in advance.

    1. shubhammansingka Avatar

      Hey Pratik. Sure, let me know what are you looking at? happy journey

  11. […] friends had been coaxing me to go on a leisure trip to Parvati Valley with them. Instead they were seen to accept my ideas of trekking into the mountains as we made our […]

  12. Guru Rai Avatar
    Guru Rai

    Bro, I am thinking about visiting this place, just for the sake of hasheesh😜. Do you recommend me going there with all those not so friendly people there, we are a group of 4 btw.
    Also, have you been to Kasol, and if yes, which place do you rate higher, Kasol or Malana.
    We will be visiting there in mid February, so also inform me more about the weather conditions there at that time.
    Thank you in advance.

    1. shubhammansingka Avatar

      I’ve been told February is a nice time to be in Malana, as there’s a local festival there at that time and the village is likely to be snowed out. Both places are good, Kasol is on the road and is pretty in February. It will be quite cold in Parvati Valley at that time 🙂 Happy travels

  13. kajal Avatar

    Nice post Shubham, I am planning to go there in the coming weekend, can you guide me to plan my trip accordingly.
    I will be leaving Thursday evening from Delhi and need to be back by Monday.

    1. shubhammansingka Avatar

      Thanks Kajal. Glad you like the post. Let me know what planning help are you looking for? Happy journey

  14. Judhajit Roy Choudhury Avatar

    Nice post. Just took some hints from this. I recently visited Malana. Link to my post: https://indroyc.com/2017/04/09/malana-cradle-of-democracy/

    1. shubhammansingka Avatar

      Thanks! Really interesting account. Thanks for sharing.

  15. […] It was my turn to laugh and tell them Rasol was another two hours away. That broke them, one of them contemplated going back. The other one suggested it was better to walk two hours and go ahead rather than going back. We stopped and sat savouring the most gorgeous valley views, the landscape had acquired a different shade of green. This trek was a stark difference from the trek to Malana. […]

  16. […] in concrete and it felt like a dirty village. I have documented these experiences and more in Winds of change in Malana. I was quite keen on attending Malana Fagli that is held in February but was exploring some other […]

  17. […] It was my turn to laugh and tell them Rasol was another two hours away. That broke them, one of them contemplated going back. The other one suggested it was better to walk two hours and go ahead rather than going back. We stopped and sat savouring the most gorgeous valley views, the landscape had acquired a different shade of green. This trek was a stark difference from the trek to Malana. […]

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