Chumathang in Winter – Frozen Indus River

Adventure in Ladakh in Winter, going from Nyoma village to Chumathang in end of December. Frozen Indus river in Chumathang. Heated guest house with natural hot water springs. Wooden bridge over the frozen Indus river. Relaxing stay even though it was very cold outside.

Redemption in Tsaga & Nyoma – Winter in Ladakh

Tsaga village to Loma Bend Check Post in winter in Ladakh; waiting at Loma Bend and being helped by Indian Army for lunch. Reach Nyoma village and stay at a homestay for the night. Chumathang next day.

Winter in Ladakh : Revisiting Turtuk from Leh

Yesterday was a crazy day of hitchhiking that included visiting Saspol, Alchi, Likir, Basgo and finally reaching Leh to stay for the night. On the next leg of our journey we want to first head to Turtuk from Leh. Since this is winter time in Ladakh we don’t want to make too many fixed plans…

Hitchhiking in Winter in Ladakh : Alchi, Likir, Basgo and Leh

It had been a cold and almost sleepless night at the Onpo House in Saspol. Inspite of the many warm blankets provided by the owners, the concrete walls of this annexe had allowed the cold to seep in. I had developed a slight fever overnight and the dim sunlight made matters worse in the morning….

Winter in Ladakh : The Goodness of Strangers from Hordass to Saspol

Woke up after a relaxed sleep in Garkon. We were staying at Master Sonam’s Homestay and our chief reason of being in the ‘Aryan Valley’ region was for the wine! Our breakfast consisted of shalgam leaves (turnip leaves) and rotis to be washed down with milk tea. It was very tasty and fresh and we…

A Second Winter Trip to Ladakh – Reaching Wanla from Leh Airport

On a cold December morning in 2016, it was time for my second winter trip to Ladakh. We boarded an early morning flight from Delhi and arrived at Leh airport at around 9 am. Even though I highly advise taking it easy and acclimatising to the rarified, thin altitude air of Ladakh especially during the…

A Day at Karsha Gompa, Zanskar Valley

After relaxing for two full days in a cheap guest house in Padum, I was mentally and physically ready to explore Zanskar’s tourist attractions! Karsha Gompa is the biggest monastery in entire Zanskar valley. Karsha Village is located 7 km away from Padum and the monastery is set on a hillock on top of the village. Karsha…

Brokpas of Ladakh – Culture & Portraits

After enjoying the explorations of the ‘Aryan Valley’ in Garkone (Also Garkhon) village in the cold of January in Ladakh’s winter in 2015, the lure of excellent wine drew me back to the Brokpa villages in December 2016 again. After visiting Biamah village and having a glimpse of this ancient culture, I had gone ahead…

Wisdom of Tradition : Food in Indian Baltistan

As a region, Baltistan refers to the area after the end of Nubra Valley in Ladakh. Before the partition of undivided India in 1947, Baltistan was a part of Ladakh. Presently, most of the region comprising Baltistan comes under Pakistan occupied Kashmir (PoK) and only a small part of Baltistan lies in India. Baltistan was once…