We arrive in Tashkent at the godforsaken hour of 1:30 am, thanks to the Delhi to Tashkent Indigo flight. The immigration process is quick and hassle free. A noteworthy surprise moment at the airport is exchanging anecdotes with a lady from Delhi who hailed from Dobhi village in Kullu Valley (where we live!). It has been decided in advance to while away the night in the confines of the warm airport (13 March, it’s still nippy in Uzbekistan) and we have accordingly booked a 9 am Sharq train from Tashkent to Samarkand (cheaper than Afrosiyob).
Arriving at Tashkent Airport
Currency exchange (from USD to Uzbek Som) and sim card work is done in no time, and we sit trying to rest at the tiny airport. The idea is to either take a yandex taxi or to walk to the Tashkent Central Train Station when it is daylight. At about 4 am, a random conversation with one of the airport officials results in us heading to the waiting lounge area just outside the confines of the Tashkent airport. It is a heated area with ample seating space and a coffee shop. It is brimming with local Uzbekis holding massive flower bouquets who have come to welcome back friends and relatives.
The waiting area is an interesting place for people watching. The coffee counter has a vibrant look, and the cappuccino turns out excellent for about 23000 UZS (About USD $2). Even though it is still dark, we are bored of sitting in the waiting area and decide to step out at 6 am. We are greeted by Tashkent’s taxi guys and a frigid breeze. I am thankful to have kept a jacket at the last minute before boarding the flight in Delhi. After paying 10000 UZS (for the two of us) for using a public toilet, we feel regretful of having left the free area of the airport earlier than planned.
Morning Stroll to Stantsiya Central Tashkent Main Station
The dawn colours on the horizon invite us to start the 5 km walk to the train station and we oblige. Google maps suggests a walking route through a risky-looking train crossing; we take a longer way that crosses an early morning market and goes through residential areas. There’s a security check before entering the train station and our hungry tummies are massively delighted at seeing a small crowd at the cute café ‘Safia’ at the station. I join the queue and choose a croissant that seems to be a local favourite – for (only 9500 Uzbek soum) USD 0.75.
We reach the station earlier than planned because in popular tourist season entry to the train stations across Uzbekistan sometimes takes over 1 hour as the passports and tickets are checked; and luggage has to go through a security check.
It is so delicious that we are delighted with the prospect of returning to Safia since the Central Station in Tashkent is the main train station for our journeys in Uzbekistan. We take a coffee from one of the other cafes before showing the ticket to the security who ask us to sit in the heated waiting area. The chill in the air seems to be a direct effect of the western disturbance over the Himalayan region. There is a constant humdrum of travellers coming to catch the Afrosiyob train as is to be expected at the biggest train station in the capital of a country.
The glimmer of morning sunshine has been taken over by clouds and we take this as our cue to change into warmer clothes in the washrooms at the train station. At about 8 am, we head to the platform where the Sharq train to Samarkand and Bukhara is already stationed. It is quite cold in the open air, and we are joyful and relieved upon entering the cosy heated train.
Sharq Train from Tashkent to Samarkand
It is a chair car train with luxurious seating, charging points and ample space to store the luggage. The Uzbekistan Railways website allows you to choose the seats and ours came with a table! There is a boiling water container (samovar) at the entry of the coach and a round of lavender tea is duly made. No sooner do we sit down to enjoy the delicate taste and aroma of the flower tea; it begins to snow! We can barely believe our eyes. At first. the snow comes down gently. Then, the intensity increases, and the white flurries start coming down in droves.
Cold weather seems to be following us all along and we are beyond thrilled to see snow falling in the middle of March when it is supposed to be spring in Uzbekistan and time for the plum, peach, apple, apricot and other blossoms to bloom. The train does not start on time and the fellow passengers don’t seem to be bothered. After all, it is warm and cozy in the train coach! When it finally starts, we are treated to a visual delight of a white landscape in the outskirts of Tashkent.
Train stations (Vokzal) by the name of Jizzakh and Gulistan come, and I rush to the window to click photographs – of Christmas-like scenes and the name Gulistan. Gul is the Uzbek word for flowers – similar to India. It is to be just the start of cultural similarities between Uzbekistan and India. The Sharq train is supposed to reach Samarkand at 1230 pm but since it is delayed, we only pull into Samarkand Vokzal at 130 pm. The snowstorm continues and we freeze after getting out of the platform and making our way to the exit.
Arriving in Samarkand and our first Yandex Taxi
We want to get to a street before calling a Yandex taxi and manage to make a booking. The place where we stand outside the Samarkand train station is a little confusing since it is on an intersection of many streets, and we receive a phone call from the taxi guy. I am sure language troubles will render communication useless, so I thrust the phone with a request in the hands of a local family who are eager to help. We converse in perfect English and thank them profusely once the yandex taxi arrives! It is with a relieved feeling that we sit in the heated taxi, still comprehending the sudden snowfall and chilly weather in Uzbekistan in spring.
We reach our pre-booked accommodation in hardly 15 minutes from the Samarkand train station and are pleased with the success on booking our first yandex taxi in Uzbekistan. The family-run hotel is ready to receive us and quickly usher us into our heated room after the check-in process. It is a four bedded room and heating radiators have been installed in the bathroom and the room. There is ample space to keep our bags and since we have carried a small kettle with us, we make some Darjeeling autumn flush green tea to relax. We are extremely hungry and contemplate our next course of action even as the snowstorm rages on in Samarkand.
History and a bit about Samarkand
Samarkand, located on the edge of the Kyzylkum Desert is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities of the world. It has a recorded history that goes all the way back to the 7th Century BC. Samarkand was an important stop on the Silk Road (Silk Route) connecting Asia to Europe, and it prospered from the trade passing through the region. However, it was in the 14th Century during Amir Timur’s rule that Samarkand reached its pinnacle when it was made the capital (year 1370) of his vast empire. Timur had a great interest in architecture, culture and art. He patronized craftsmen and architects that led to the development of a unique architectural style known as Timurid architecture.
Samarkand’s decline was swift beginning from the year 1500 AD when the capital was shifted to Bukhara in early 16th Century, then numerous earthquakes played their part in the damage. Its fortunes reversed only when the Russians transformed Samarkand into a modern city, built a railway line and restored some of the heritage monuments. Samarkand was also the capital of the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic from 1925 to 1930 before being replaced by Tashkent. Samarkand was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the year 2001.
Samarkand is the second biggest city in Uzbekistan and an important commercial and cultural centre. It boasts of an illustrious history; Samarkand was coveted and conquered by Alexander the Great, pillaged and destroyed by Genghis Khan, and rebuilt to glory by Amir Timur.
I asked our hostess for a eatery recommendation, and with language communication issues could only understand that there is a small eatery nearby. When we go out trying to find the small eatery, there is no success, and it seems logical to walk to the street where we came from and try and find a restaurant there. Thankfully, the snowstorm has taken a breather, and we are sitting in the cozy interiors of one Shahjahon Milliy Taomlar. The food turns out to be excellent and we enjoy our first taster of Uzbek non (nan) and green tea. As soon as we step out of the restaurant, it begins snowing again and we are totally unprepared for this burst of cold air.
First sight of Registan Square
Our brains are not functioning properly, and we walk in an incomprehensible manner only to start walking back in the direction of our stay. We change the plan once we understand that a number of historical monuments of Samarkand are located quite close to where we are! It is hardly a walk of 10 odd minutes, and we are at the viewing deck of the Registan Square. White snow has covered the blooming spring flowers surrounding the Registan Square. Among the iconic places to photograph in Samarkand, Registan Square is top of the list.
The gloomy sky and the snowfall combine to make it a colourless evening and I am unable to feel the grandeur of the Registan Square of Samarkand. We choose to enter one of the art galleries nearby and I like the paintings and a particular copper water container. As expected, I am quoted a best price of some USD $1000 in the hope that I will indulge in the bargaining game, but I am just testing the waters and wise enough to know when to open my mouth!
We are hoping to explore and admire Samarkand’s dazzling mosques, azure blue-tiled madrasahs, majestic domes and minarets, bazaars withhandcrafted treasures and are really hoping the weather gods will behave and let us explore Samarkand in nice, sunny weather.
Amir Timur; Uzbekistan and India
For us, being in Uzbekistan is like going back to the history books. Amir Timur is proclaimed a national hero in Uzbekistan whereas our classroom textbooks mentioned Timur as a barbarian. His brutal massacre of Delhi in the year 1398 is the stuff of legends. Uzbekistan is also associated with the beginning of India’s Mughal history – Babur, who established the Mughal empire in undivided India is the great-great-great grandson of Amir Timur. How very interesting!
Guest House in Samarkand
We feel accomplished after the walk on this supremely chilly spring day and ultimately decide to go back to our cosy stay. It is interesting to observe local life as we walk through the non-touristy lanes. We are hoping that tomorrow the sun will be out so that we will be able to have a nice Samarkand experience, since our Afrosiyob train from Samarkand to Bukhara has already been booked for about 11 am, the day after. The hosts at the guest house are really kind and offer us green tea whenever they see us! We fill enough filter water from the dispenser and retire to our warm room for the night.
It is a nice feeling to relax while the weather is frighteningly cold outside. We also wonder why we don’t have this heating system in the cold regions of India. It would be great to have this central heating system at our home in Kullu Valley. After a hot shower, we dive into the cosy bed. It is prudent to do a bit of route mapping of Samarkand’s monuments and our supposed plan of action for tomorrow. The weather forecast is for an absolutely clear day and relishing the prospect of sunshine, we call it a night and are fast asleep by 8 pm!
First Breakfast in Uzbekistan – Yummy
It is a deep sleep and we wake up super fresh. We decide to take the day as it comes rather than trying to rush early. I open the door and am thankful to see blue skies and a sliver of sunshine across the sky. The clock shows 730 am and we are having a slow morning to get us ready for a proper exploration of Samarkand. The hostess has laid out a plethora of delicacies and we are really looking forward to a nice breakfast to set us up for a long day of walking and sights. We are down in the heated family room at 8 am and are excited to taste the delicious local cheese, fresh cucumbers and tomatoes, home-made pastry, pancakes, local honey, dry fruits, jams and so many other options. We wash down the yummy eats with repeated helpings of green tea, thank the family for the excellent breakfast and set out to explore Samarkand.
First up; we had spotted a dazzling blue dome on our way back last evening and upon researching realise it is a famous landmark. Unknowingly, it is our first glimpse of Samarkand’s spectacular blue tilework in the mellow evening light.
Places to Visit in Samarkand : Samarkand Attractions
Gur e Amir or Amir Timur Mausoleum
Rather than trusting our limited geography of Samarkand based on our previous day’s wanderings, we choose to use google maps to walk to the Gur e Amir Mausoleum. We go round and round in circles and have to finally ask some locals and are guided to the right place. The sun is out and Samarkand feels much better with blue skies. The blue dome comes closer and we are right in front of the Amir Timur Mausoleum. The richly carved entrance painted in (guess what!) deep shade of blue is dazzling and we make a mental note to return here in the evening when the sun will light it up.
Gur-e-Amir or Amir Timur Mausoleum is the final resting place of Amir Timur. It is set in beautiful green surroundings and feels like a different part of Samarkand since it is away from the other monuments. This building was originally built to be an Islamic school but a big stroke of luck made . I spot a ‘kassa’ ticket office sign to my left. I check the entry ticket price and it is almost USD $4 per person (UZS 50000). We decide to defer the purchasing of the ticket and walk around the permitted free area with the security guards in tow.
Amir Timur was supposed to be buried at Shakhrisabz (where he was born in 1336 AD) but he unexpectedly died of pneumonia while on war in China. Since snow had closed the passes to Shakhrisabz, he was buried in Samarkand instead. The Gur e Amir or Amir Timur Mausoleum also houses the graves of Timur’s two sons and two grandsons (including Ulugh Beg). We figure that evening is the best time to be here as the blue tiles of the mausoleum are lit in a soft orange hue with the setting sun. Then, as darkness sets in, the lights take effect making the Amir Timur Mausoleum look even more ethereal. We ambled here in the night again and were spellbound by the effect!
It is surreal to see the snow still clinging on the branches of trees (from yesterday’s snowstorm) and we walk around the narrow lanes around the blue domed mausoleum. The sunshine on the other side of Gur e Amir complex feels better and our surprise moment comes when we are on the opposite side of the monument and the door is open. I am happy to click a few pictures from my dslr camera and a bit surprised to see a handicraft shop in the frame. There are two local ladies and a caretaker from the nearby Ak-Saray Mosque soaking in the sunshine. We have limited conversations in broken english and the caretaker is interested in giving us a tour for the Ak-Saray Mosque’s ceiling for 10000 Uzbek soums each.
Aksaray Mausoleum
Located very close to the opposite side of the Amir Timur Mausoleum, we only come to know of its existence because of the gatekeeper who was chatting with the two ladies. Aksaray Mausoleum is an unassuming structure from the outside but apparently the painted ceiling inside is a must see. Amir Timur’s grandsons are buried at the Aksaray Mausoleum. The gatekeeper is offering us a tour of the inside along-with the famed ceiling for a price of UZS 10000 Uzbek Soum (USD 0.75) each. We first opt to walk around the Aksaray Mausoleum to see the Amir Timur Mausoleum with the blue skies. When we come back to the entrance, the door is open, and the gatekeeper is taking money from some Russian speaking tourists. It is a chance viewing of the blue and gold ceiling which looks stunning but also quite shiny making me wonder if it has been freshly painted!
Rukhobod Mosque or Rukhabad Mausoleum
We wander back to the Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum and start walking through the green park in front of it to spot the painted ceilings of a nearby mosque. Since it is the month of Ramzan, prayers are going on and we are pleased to gaze at the exquisitely painted wooden ceiling. It is the month of Ramadan and prayers are currently being held.
Rukhobod Mausoleum and Handicraft Center
Adjacent to the Ruhabad Mosque or the Rukhobod Mosque, there is a signboard for another monument. Since, we have no plan set in stone, we enter inside the compound and see that this is an artisan centre with about 15-20 of nice-looking shops set in the courtyard. It is one of the oldest mausoleums in Samarkand and made from bricks (in the year 1380) and was renovated recently.
It is bitterly cold after yesterday’s snowfall and half the shops are still closed at the relatively early hour of 930 am. The prices for the usual Uzbek souvenirs quoted at the shops here are quite reasonable and if Samarkand was not our first city, we might have ended up buying a number of souvenirs! We buy a cute handmade doll set for UZS INR 20000 (USD 1.6). On display and sale are miniature paintings, suzani embroidery table runners and bedcovers, embroidered jackets and Uzbek-style adras or ikat jackets.
Registan Square
Samarkand’s or even Uzbekistan’s claim to fame, the majestic Registan square is a collection of three monuments. From the viewing deck, the monuments are perfectly placed on the left, center and right so that you can gaze and gawk at the majestic sight in front of you! Even though we had stood at the viewing deck on the previous day and found Registan Square underwhelming; the blue skies and shining sun today combine to create sheer grandeur of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are still bits of snow that have not melted yet, and it is nice to see the bright colours of the blooming spring flowers to warm the heart. Entry tickets to Registan Square are available from a kiosk and cost UZS 80000 (Uzbek Soum) about USD $7.5.
History & Heritage of Registan Square
Registan Square is a history and architecture lover’s delight. It comprises of three monuments, here is the order as seen from the viewing deck – Ulugh Beg Madrassah on the left, the majestic Tilya Kori Madrassah in the centre and the Sher Dor Madrassah to the right. According to historical records, Registan Square was an important center of trade in the 15th-16th Century. The complex consisted of several mosques used for prayers and learning, caravanserais, bazaars, a khanqah (inn for Sufis). The small rooms surrounding the courtyard of all the three madrassahs in Registan Square which earlier served as learning cells now function as souvenir shops. The Registan entry ticket is valid for the entire day, so it’s recommended to take the tickets back when you present it to the guards so that you can visit Registan in the evening same day without paying again for the same.
The ground floor rooms were initially classrooms and the upper floor was used as sleeping quarters for the students. Now these cells are creatively used by souvenir shops selling intricate suzanis, ikat, pottery, jackets, scarves and other Uzbek handicrafts. Registan Square (and other monuments of Samarkand) was damaged by earthquakes numerous times and the monuments have been heavily restored, like many other monuments across Samarkand. Tickets for Registan Square include entrance to the three madrassahs. An almost unknown fact is that Registan Square has a gory past attached to it as it was also used for public executions at one point of time.
Ulugh Beg Madrassah (15th Century) – It is the oldest of the three madrassahs of the Registan Square; originally built very swiftly in a short period of three years (1417-1420) AD by Ulugh Beg, grandson of Amir Timur. Ulugh Beg was a mathematician and an astronomer and that is evident in the depiction of the sky and stars embellished on the entrance-arch tile work of the monument. In the courtyard, there are approximately 50 cells, where about 200 students were taught astronomy and mathematics. It is possible to climb to the second floor of the madrassah for a nice bird’s eye view of the Registan Square.
Tilya Kori Madrassa also (Tilla Kari Madrassah) (17th Century)- The golden ceiling of the Tilya Kori Madrassah is special and a hallmark of this monument. Shaybanid Emir Yalangtush built this mosque that is adorned with gold leaf. It served as a caravanserai for travellers and was the last of the three monuments built on the Registan Square. Tilya Kori literally means gold covered and this refers to the spectacular golden ceiling! An interesting trivia about this monument is that while the elaborate gilded ceiling in the Tilya Kori Mosque’s central chamber looks like a hollow dome, it is in fact flat and is merely an optical illusion. Photos of the Registan square before renovation are on display in one of the exhibits in the Tilya Kori Madrassa.
Sher Dor Madrassah (17th Century) – Located on the right of Tilya Kori Madrassa, the Sher Dor madrassa could be said to be less popular among the photo-ops. Its chief differentiator is the mosaic tile work that shows the sun, a tiger and deers on both sides of the entrance arch. While Islam prohibits the depiction of living beings, a Zoroastrian past is visible on the façade of the Sher Dor Madrassah where the animals are depicted.
Entrance Fee & Timings : 80000 Uzbek Soum (USD 6.5), open from 7 am till late night.
Best time to visit Registan Square : Early morning before the tour groups arrive and sunset time.
Tip : Emirhan Restaurant has a fabulous view of the Registan Square!
Night Lights at Registan Square – Registan Sound and Light Show
We return to Registan Square in the evening and are welcomed with an ethereal evening light casting an orange hue on the monuments. The golden façade of the Tilya Kori Madrassah looks even more mesmerising during sunset time. The wind is ferociously cold and we are caught unawares. We want to enjoy wandering around the monuments of Samarkand in the lights and therefore decide to quickly head back to our guest house; wear another layer and come back to the Registan Square.
We take a shortcut and are back in less than 20 minutes. Of course, a few minutes of the sunset are missed, but it made more sense to be ready for the cold since it has snowed only the day before and the temperature is close to negative. When we come back, it is a surreal sight with the majestic Registan Square lit up in perfect yellow-orange lights. At about 7 pm, the Light and Sound show started and the monuments of Registan Square are getting lit up in myriad colours. The evening lights and Light and Sound show is best watched from the viewing deck or from the steps where you can relax as well!
Entry : UZS 60000, or simply watch it for free from the steps or the viewing deck!
Heritage Walk in Samarkand
Starting from the Registan Square in Samarkand, this self-styled heritage walk is via a cobblestone path that connects the major historical and must-see monuments in Samarkand. We take a right at the end of the Islam Karimov statue park and continue on the pedestrian walking area. There are souvenir shops and a few restaurants, chaikhanas, milliy taomlar (Uzbek national foods) eateries lining both the sides. I highly recommend exploring the heritage attractions of Samarkand by walk as it gives a more authentic feel. The heritage walk is quite convenient as it starts on the Islam Karimov street and continues to the Shah I Zinda necropolis.
As we start the walk, we come across a conveniently located cafe serving ice-creams, cold drinks, snacks and other basic stuff. It is perhaps in preparation for the summer when it is the most popular season for tourists to visit Samarkand and the weather starts becoming hotter. The souvenir shops on the left and the right look the same with the usual suzani, machine made ikat, pottery knick-knacks, jackets, bags and the likes. We spot a few interesting eateries and enter one of them; the setting is impeccable with a topchan (Uzbek style sitting) bed flanked by a tree resulting in dappled sunlight.
Craftsmen’s Centre on Islam Karimov Street
While on the heritage walk on the cobblestone path, we see a signboard for Craftsmen’s Centre. Always keen on handmade arts and crafts, we immediately head to the spacious building. The courtyard is beautiful with plants and trees and is surrounded by artisan shops. The potter crafting delicate blue pieces has a lovely collection, and the metal artisan chiseling plates is engrossed in work. Some of the shops are closed, but we are pleased to browse the excellent collection at Art Gallery Happy Bird. The leather workshop guy has excellent stuff as well but is a tad too expensive.
Bibi Khanym Mosque or Bibi Khanum Mosque
As you keep walking on the heritage trail for 5-7 minutes from the Craftsmen’s Centre, you come cross the Bibikhanum Teahouse on your left and reach the mosque which is another 2 minute walk. The first impression as you walk towards the Bibi Khanym Mosque is massive. At 41 metres, it was one of the highest and biggest mosques in the world when it was built in the 15th Century. This mosque was largely financed by Timur’s spoils resulting from the invasion of India. Historical records state that a huge number of slaves and about 100 elephants were brought from India for its construction. The size of the Bibi Khanym mosque is so massive that it had started crumbling even before the construction was entirely finished! We are finally able to capture the huge mosque in one frame from the opposite Bibi Khanym Mausoleum.
The architecture style of Bibi Khanym Mosque is said to have been inspired from Iran with four towering minarets and a massive dome. The interior is filled with intricate tile-work like the other historical monuments of Samarkand. This mosque was heavily damaged in an earthquake in 1897 which caused significant destruction across Samarkand. In 1970, work began on restoring it almost entirely from scratch with speedy culmination after Uzbekistan’s independence in 1991. Bibi Khanum, who ordered the mosque to be built was Amir Timur’s Chinese wife. She was a Chagatai princess by the name of Saray Mulk Khanum and was a direct descendent of Genghis Khan.
Entry fee: 50000 UZS (4 USD)
Bibi Khanym Mausoleum
Lying opposite to the Bibi Khanym Mosque, the mausoleum is the place where Bibi Khanym (Amir Timur’s wife) was buried. It is a simple looking small building compared to the other monuments in Samarkand. The lady at the entrance asked us for UZS 10000 per person entry which we promptly refused since it is not a ticketed monument. Later, I saw some foreigners pay UZS 25000 per person for entering! It is best to see the Bibi Khanym Mausoleum from the outside and be away from the touristy trail for a few quiet moments from the bustle of Bibi Khanym mosque.
Siyob Bazar (Siyob Bozor)
Siyob bazaar lies at a stone’s throw from Bibi Khanym Mosque on the Samarkand Heritage Walking Trail. It is Samarkand’s largest and oldest bazaar; with a history spanning about 2000 years! As you enter, you can spot the ladies to your left selling fresh dairy produce like paneer, cheese, kurt and varieties of halva. An entire section of the market is filled with dry-fruit sellers, vegetable sellers, fruit sellers, and spice sellers as well. The covered section has a couple of souvenir shops that try to sell average quality overpriced stuff, so better to steer clear of them! In comparison, the smaller shops lining the periphery of the bazaar have varied collections and might be a better place to bargain for some unique Samarkand and Uzbek souvenirs.
The pistachio halva (that tastes like a sweet nougat) is a popular takeaway from Samarkand; we tasted it at Sharq Halva the previous day and did not like it at all! So be wary of touristy gimmicks and try a taster before buying. Seasonal fruits and vegetables are a good buy at the Siyob Bazaar; I highly recommend trying the apples as Uzbekistan grows a large variety of tasty apples priced at about UZS 12500 (USD 1) per kilo.. Among other offerings are dry fruits, nuts, baked non (Samarkand non breads are special), handicrafts, caps, tubeteikas, glazed pottery plates and lots more. Depending on the season, watermelons and muskmelons in summer and grapes in autumn.
We are a bit tired with the walks and exploration and opt to sit at one of the truly local eateries in Siyob Bozor. Sunshine is streaming in, and the seating is Uzbek style tapchan. The eatery is crowded with locals, and we are glad to experience a restaurant/cafe in true Uzbekistan or Central Asian style. A pot of green tea and freshly baked non costs about UZS 10000 (USD 0.75). I nibble on an apple that we had just bought from one of the sellers at Siyob Bozor. Also, the best part about Siyob Bazaar is that entry is free! (Take that as a pun, as with ticketed entry everywhere – nothing or nowhere is free in Samarkand!)
Hazrat Khizr Mosque
Rejuvenated after a break, we continue our stroll and come to an intersection. Spring flowers are blooming in a range of glorious colours on the pavement. On the left is a majestic looking mosque on an uphill climb while the straight path would lead to the ruins of ancient settlement Afrasiab. There are people standing in the richly painted wooden balcony. As we climb the stairs, the snow-clad mountains are visible in the far distance. The sky is absolutely clear after the snowstorm of the previous day. We are excited at the prospect of a bird’s eye view of Samarkand from the vantage point of the Hazrat Khizr Mosque. Bibi Khanym Mosque’s real splendour is visible from one of the balconies and on the other side are partial views of Shah-I-Zinda necropolis and one can also spot the ruins of Afrasiab in the far distance flanked by the snow mountains.
The mosque looks recently renovated and has an interesting mix of blue tiles and intricate geometric patterns combining to create an inviting and unique architectural style. The open courtyard of the mosque is spacious, and is dotted with several smaller enclosures. We rush to the balcony and are in awe of the stunning painted wooden ceiling. The ancient and modern blend of Samarkand is beautifully juxtaposed with the three-hundred-degree view of the snowy mountain ranges. As we walk in the central courtyard, a friendly Uzbek family played a bollywood song and we have a little dance with them before clicking pictures!
Entry to Hazrat Khizr is free!
History of Hazrat Khizr Mosque
Hazrat Khizr mosque is one of the oldest buildings in Samarkand and was originally built in the 8th century. It is named after the Sufi saint Hazrat Khizr. The mosque built in the 8th Century was destroyed and burnt to the ground by Genghis Khan in his attack of 13th century. It was partially rebuilt in 1854 and was recently restored in the 1990s.
Islam Karimov Mausoleum
In the open courtyard of the Hazrat Khizr Mosque, there is a gleaming mausoleum of Uzbekistan’s first president Islam Karimov, who died in 2016. The mausoleum was built in 2018 but totally blends in with the architectural style as the other parts of the Hazrat Khizr mosque. Entry fee inside the tomb is UZS 20000.
Shah I Zinda or Shakhi Zinda
Shah-I-Zinda necropolis is a collection of ornate mausoleums built from the 11th to 19th Century. It is an art lover’s dream come true with some of the most exquisite blue tilework in entire Central Asia and each mausoleum looking more elaborate (and bluer) than the others! Some of the mausoleums are for important members of the royal family from the Timurid era while the most stunning architecture dates from the 14th and 15th century. Shah I Zinda literally translates to ‘tomb of the living king’ which refers to the grave of Qusam-ibn-Abbas (cousin of Prophet Mohammed), who is said to have brought Islam to Samarkand in the 7th Century.
Among the most impressive sights in the Shah I Zinda necropolis complex are the Shodi Mulk Oko Mausoleum, Shirin Beka Oka mausoleum, Ali Nesefi mausoleum and Amirzadeh mausoleum. Remember to dress conservatively covering your shoulders and knees as this is a sacred site.
Note: Even though Shah I Zinda complex’s tombs survived more than seven centuries with only minor upkeep, recently almost all the tombs were controversially restored in 2005. Hence a word of caution, if you think everything is old; then the answer is no. In simple words, much of the mind-blowing mosaic and terracotta work you see today is not original and has been highly restored.
Afrasiyab Settlement Ruins
The Afrasiyab Settlement in Samarkand, Uzbekistan is an important historical site that dates to the pre-Islamic period. It is believed to be the ancient city of Marakanda, founded in the 7th century BC by the Sogdians, a Central Asian civilization. Samarkand was a prosperous city on the hill until it was destroyed by the Mongol invasion in the 13th Century. Afrasiyab ruins are reached by a walk – we continue on the same heritage walking trail past the Hazrat Khizr mosque. The distance is about 1.5 kms and it is a pleasant walk that should take about 20 minutes.
Afrasiyab Museum
Adjacent to Afrasiyab settlement ruins, the Afrasiyab museum should be visited first to get a real sense of the ruins. Among the ancient things on display is a damaged 7th-century fresco of a Zoroastrian Nowruz celebration. The Afrasiyab museum is dedicated to the history of Samarkand and the surrounding region. The museum also showcases a number of treasured artefacts like murals, ceramics and textiles from the Sogdian period, that offer insights into the life and culture of the people who lived during that time.
Entry : 40000 UZS
Observatory of Ulugbek
Constructed in 1429 by Ulugbek, this was the first astronomical observatory in Central Asia before it was destroyed in 1445 by religious fanatics. Ulugbek was a keen astronomer and was able to calculate the length of a star year to a one-minute difference to our current calculations, almost 600 years ago! There is a museum in the same complex right next to the observatory, where visitors can learn more about the observatory and see the remnants of the instruments from the 15th Century.
Ulugbek’s Observatory is a bit far (about 6 kms) from the other attractions of Samarkand and it is best to take a Yandex taxi to go there.
Entry : 40000 UZS (About 3.2 USD)
Offbeat Samarkand
If you are staying in Samarkand for more than 2-3 days in the high season and are bored of seeing the monuments with the tourist hordes; here’s your chance to find some solace at some of these offbeat sights in Samarkand.
Gumbaz Synagogue
About 10 minutes walk from Shah I Zinda, tucked in a by-lane lies Gumbaz Synagogue that was built in 1891 for Samarkand’s Jewish community. The inner domed hall of the synagogue has a beautiful ceiling. In the present day, hardly 50 Jews remain in Samarkand and there are no fixed days for the minyan ceremony. Caretaker may ask for UZS 50000 per person in the name of donation!
Islam Karimov Statue
In the morning when we were roaming in the periphery of the Registan Square, I notice a colourful sight in a nearby green space and we decide to go there later. Hiding in plain sight, this bronze statue is a tribute to the late first president of Uzbekistan, who ruled for 25 years. The lush garden is popular with local Samarkand folks for wedding photography of newlyweds! The Islam Karimov statue is in the middle of the park. Come in the evenings to observe the kids take joy rides on the tricycles. A variety of popcorn is available for sale on the mobile carts.
Cemetery or Kabristan
Hardly one minute distance from the Hazrat Khizr mosque lies Samarkand’s main cemetery. It is a fascinating place to walk with interesting epitaphs and relative quiet from the other surrounding chaotic and popular monuments of Samarkand. The cemetery has novel views of Shah I Zinda and the Afrosiyab ruins can be seen in the far distance, flanked by snowy mountains in the far distance.
Museum of Regional Studies, Samarkand
Located a stone’s throw away from the Central Park, the Museum of Regional Studies in Samarkand is devoted to Uzbek Jewish history. The museum is located in an old Jewish merchant’s house, and old photos of Samarkand’s sizeable population of Bukhara and European Jews are on display.
Entrance : 25000 UZS, extra for photography
Jewish Cemetery
We were pleasantly surprised at coming across the doors of the Jewish Cemetery in Samarkand with an ornamental gateway engraved with the star of David. The cemetery is well maintained and is hardly 5 minutes’ walk from Shah I Zinda, along the Islam Karimov street. Based on my visit, there is no entry fee.
Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets Factory
One of the highlights of our explorations in Samarkand was stumbling upon the riches of Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets Factory! I can count myself lucky to see the highest quality of artisanship creating and showcasing priceless handmade carpets. We were given a proper tour of the weaving process, details about using natural dyes and also shown the different varieties of kilims, rugs, silk rugs, sozani, jackets and many more handicrafts! There was no pressure to buy and that is a refreshing change as tourist hotspots invariably try to exhort money from you.
Even if you are not planning to buy a kilim or carpet or do any shopping whatsoever, I highly recommend visiting this place to observe the process of high quality carpet weaving. The Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets factory is a 10 minute walk from the Jewish Cemetery.
Central Park in Samarkand
If you are bored of visiting Samarkand’s popular attractions with busloads of tourists and want to just get away from the action and spend some time like the locals do, then Central Park is a good place. It is a lovely green space with plenty of flowers in spring and is a hotspot for children who come to enjoy bike rides in the evening. A nice park for a relaxed walk and get rejuvenated to get back to Samarkand’s main attractions!
Wine Tasting in Samarkand at Khovrenko Wine Factory
Visiting the Khovrenko wine factory is an interesting insight in the world of Uzbek wine. The Khovrenko winery has been making wines since 1868. The in-house Samarkand Museum of winemaking has some interesting photos of Soviet wine production in the 1930s. The wine tasting is priced at UZS 100000 to UZS 200000 and includes 3 white wines, 4 red wines, 2 Uzbek cognacs and 1 aperitif.
Statue of Amir Timur
A chance find, I spotted this statue in the middle of a green park while heading back to the Samarkand train station. This majestic statue of Timur seated on a throne is located very close to the Amir Timur mausoleum and is the start of Samarkand’s modern part built by the Russians in the 20th Century.
Day Trips from Samarkand
Meros Paper Making Factory in Konigil, Samarkand
Located about 10 kms from Samarkand in Konigil village, Meros paper making factory is home to a team of skilled craftsmen employing traditional methods to create handmade paper. Visitors can watch the one hour workshop process (UZS 15000) from start to finish to learn about the traditional technique of making paper. The souvenir shop has interesting accessories for sale created from handmade paper. Konigil village is a nice place to visit if you are staying in Samarkand for more than 3 days. There’s also a pottery making workshop nearbuy in Konigil.
Entry : 15000 UZS
Among other offbeat sights and attractions in Samarkand, the 9th Century mausoleum of Imam al-Bukhari located about 25 kms from Samarkand, State Museum of History of Culture, Urgut town’s bazaar and Chor-Chinor garden about 40 kms from Samarkand.
Day Trips from Samarkand
Shakhrisabz, the birthplace of Amir Timur (a village nearby) is a UNESCO heritage site with many notable attractions like Aksaray Palace, Tomb of Amir Timur (he was buried instead in Samarkand), Kok Gumbaz mosque, Amir Timur museum and other historic attractions. Shakhrisabz (also called Shahrisabz) is about 90 kms from Samarkand and can be reached by a shared taxi (called marshrutka).
Practical Tips for Visiting Samarkand
Best Weather to visit Samarkand?
Weather wise, mid-March to May and mid-September to October is the best time to visit Samarkand when the temperature ranges between 32 degrees maximum to 8 degrees minimum. It is the most popular time for tourists and expect crowds everywhere you go. June, July and August are the hottest months when the temperature in Samarkand hits over 36 degrees and sometimes reaches 42 degrees. Spend the afternoons cooling down if you choose to go during peak summer season.
December and January are the coldest months in Samarkand with night temperatures plummeting to -15 degrees. If you are used to the cold, it could be a great time to see the monuments in white snow. You will encounter almost zero tourists and have the sights of Samarkand to yourself. The months of November and February are cold but bearable and can serve as the perfect shoulder season for visiting Samarkand. Indoors across Uzbekistan are centrally heated, so no problem for the chilly nights if you want to visit when there are lesser tourists. Pack heavy winter jackets, caps, socks and thermals if you choose to travel in the cold weather as the dry Central Asian cold can be pretty rough!
Samarkand by Night
As detailed in the attractions of Samarkand, most of them are lit up in the night and in addition to seeing them in the day; there’s a special pleasure in gazing at these monuments lost in time in the mellow orange light and with far lesser crowds than in the day.
Accommodation in Samarkand?
There are a number of homestays, hotels, hostels, guest houses to stay close to the main sights in Samarkand. Price options for backpackers, budget stays, luxury accommodation are plentiful. We had booked a family run guest house which turned out to be excellent. It is best to book in advance in high season.
How to reach Samarkand?
Samarkand has an international airport and is very well connected by road and railway.
From Tashkent by train – Multiple train options like Afrosiyob and Sharq from Tashkent to Samarkand throughout the day. Recommended to book in advance. Book from the official Uzbek Railways website.
From Bukhara by train – Multiple train options like Afrosiyob and Sharq from Bukhara to Samarkand throughout the day. It is best to book in advance directly from the Uzbek Railways website.
Where to eat in Samarkand?
Some of the best eateries in Samarkand are not on the touristy trail. Milliy Taomlar eateries serve traditional dishes in a relaxed seating. Restaurants and cafés located close to the attractions are a hit and miss and it is best to check the latest reviews on google maps before deciding on a place.
Even though I have tried to cover everything that came to mind, I am welcome to suggestions to make additions to this travel guide to Samarkand.
Samarkand itinerary for 3 days
We spent about 3 weeks across Uzbekistan and our self-made itinerary meant we had a good three days to go around Samarkand and you can follow the above itinerary. If you are short on time, you can make your own itinerary of exploring Samarkand and rush through all the monuments and bazaars in one day.
In a way it felt like Samarkand had saved its best for the last. As the modern Afrosiyab train rolled onto the platform, deep-throated, guttural cries of ‘Samarkand non, Samarkand non’ rang in my ears. There was a bit of Silk Road still left in Samarkand. Perhaps I will return someday (in better weather?) to let the city change my opinion.
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Snow in Samarkand must have been a beautiful experience.
The architecture of each of the Mausoleum always fascinate me.
Was this your recent trip with other travel blogger friends?
Samarkand is such a mesmerizing destination with its rich history and stunning architecture! This guide covers all the must-see spots perfectly. Thanks for this detailed guide
Well covered in all aspects. Can you mention the Hotel name or the locality of the hotel as it appears from your write up its very cosy with central heating system and nearby to Registon. Please also give the link for your continuation journey to Bukhara. I am planning a trip by end of this month for 10 to 12 days i.e. may be upto 10th December 2024. You may personally intimate me if its other way objectionable as per Blog norms. My e-mail id: kotti_99@yahoo.com
Thanking you in anticipation of your prompt positive action in this regard.
This Samarkand travel guide perfectly captures the city’s rich history and stunning architecture.
I Googled “samarkand train station to registan” and stumbled on your blog. That was a wonderful read. Thanks for sharing your stories : ) Currently I’m planning my Uzbekistan itinerary and your post was very helpful.
Thank you for sharing…