While checking photographs from my trip to Kheerganga (Khirganga), I was also reminded of the lack of proper information about the trek on the internet and travel blogs.
Here is an attempt at making a step-by-step guide on trekking to Kheerganga (Khirganga) on your own. Feel free to add your suggestions in the comments below : Thanks 🙂
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Kheerganga is located deep in Parvati Valley (Kullu Valley) and is perched at an altitude of approximately 2950m.
Reaching Bhuntar on the Delhi-Manali Highway : To reach Bhuntar, one can take a private Volvo bus that leaves from Majnu Ka Tila or Rama Krishna Ashram Metro Station in Delhi. A recommended and timely option is taking the HRTC Himsuta Volvo that leaves from ISBT Kashmere Gate. All the Volvos from Delhi leave in the evening and reach Bhuntar at around 5 am to 7 am in the morning.
Bhuntar is the village from where the road diverges for Parvati Valley, it is also the confluence point of Beas River with Parvati River. Ask the bus to drop you near the Bhuntar bus stand from where you have to catch a bus to Barshaini. Barshaini comes after Kasol, Manikaran and is the last motorable road in the valley. Buses from Bhuntar to Barshaini are frequent and the distance is usually covered in approx. 2-3 hours. It is better to have breakfast in Bhuntar while waiting for the bus.
Barshaini : Barshaini is a small town with a few staying options, and has basic dhabas, a taxi stand and a wine shop. If you have to buy any supplies, it is recommended that you buy them from here. A small road from here diverges to go to Tosh village, which is around 3 kms from Barshaini.
The Parvati River thunders down the gorges and is visible from Barshaini and also flows adjacent to the village. The natural beauty of Parvati Valley has been adversely affected due to the hydro power projects on Parvati River near Barshaini & Pulga. Timing of the last bus from Barshaini to Bhuntar is either 2 pm or 3 pm, confirm the same with locals before deciding on the return journey.
Trekking routes to Kheerganga :
The trekking distance from Barshaini to Kheerganga by any of the routes is around 9-10 kms. There are three routes from Barshaini to go to Kheerganga.
- Walk to the bridge after Barshaini and take the left turn, ask anyone the way to Nakthan village and Kheerganga. This is the shortest and most preferred route and takes 3-4 hours for a person with average trekking speed. This route is on the left side of Parvati river. The path through Nakthan is the most popular route to trek to Kheerganga and the trail is well marked.
- From the bridge, take a right to hike up and reach Kalga village. From Kalga there is a different trek route to go to Kheerganga, although it joins the main route halfway on the trek. This route passes through dense forests and it is quite possible for people to lose their way on this trekking path to Kheerganga. It is used by very few trekkers because most people do not know about this route.
- There is a different trekking path for Kheerganga from Tosh village. It also joins Route No. 1 near the village of Nakthan. This route is mostly used by tourists who stay in Tosh for the night and want to trek the next morning. Tosh nallah or Tosh river flows by near Tosh village which joins Parvati river near Pulga.
I went by Route No. 2 while going to Kheerganga and used Route No. 1 on the way back.
Planning the trek to Kheerganga : Since it is likely that one will reach Barshaini by 11 am – 12 noon (if the bus connection to and from Bhuntar works fine), most people trek to Kheerganga on the same day. The time taken to trek to Kheerganga is usually 3 to 4 hours depending on an average person’s speed. It is a fairly easy trek – on the difficulty level and can be ideal for a first time trekker.
Check : Why Triund could be the perfect first Himalayan trek?
If you want to do a day hike to Kheerganga and come back the same day, it is possible to do it provided one leaves early. It is best to reach there anyhow by noon, enjoy the natural hot water spring bath, eat lunch and leave by 3. Remember that usually the time taken to go back is half of what you’d take while hiking up, so one can get back to Barshaini in 2 hours from Kheerganga.
Homestays : Barshaini has a couple of homestays in close vicinity. Tosh is a popular destination and has many options to stay, ranging from hotels to homestays. The recent tourist rush in Tosh has meant that the prices of rooms have gone up. There are also a number of colourful cafés in Tosh. On the other side Kalga village has cheap and basic homestays, with in-house cafés as well. Prices per person to be paid (depending on the season and crowd) are from Rs. 100 – Rs. 200 per day.
The Route : Whichever path you choose, the beginning of the trek is a short gentle climb. The way to Nakthan passes gorgeous apple orchards but can get tiring and hot on a sunny day, in the absence of a tree cover. Towering deodhar trees line the path from Kalga and the dominance of nature is evident on that route. Nakthan village is a traditional Himachali village with small wood and stone homes and also has a few cafés for travellers and trekkers. In recent years, a few homes have also started offering staying facilities for trekkers. Route no. 3 from Tosh joins Route No. 1 just after crossing Nakthan village.
After crossing the village, Rudranag Temple is only a short walk away. A serene waterfall is very close to the temple and one can fill water bottles from there. Also for pilgrims, there is a staying hut nearby (dharamshala) which was closed when I visited. There are also two small cafés near Rudranag temple. The sound of Parvati river rushing through the gorges is like music to the ears. There are fine views of pine forests towering near the mountain peaks. Remember to carry some candies with you, e.g. I carry alpenliebe which is a great choice on uphill climbs, it helps the throat to not get dry and also provides energy from sugar.
Around 30 minutes after Rudranag temple, the trail will reach a bridge to the right – just before the bridge is a lovely dhaba with basic staying facilities too; in case of an emergency or starting the trek late from Barshaini. Around this point, Route No. 2 from Kalga joins the main route (i.e Route No. 1) and an uphill climb begins. There are sometimes shepherds going with their flock of goat and sheep (that cause traffic jam!) to the green meadows of Thakur Khan which is after Kheerganga.
There are a number of shortcuts on the entire trek and it is well advised to not take any of them. These shortcuts are mostly used by the sure footed locals and trekkers have many a time had fatal experiences when they slipped and fell into the river after trying to take a risky shortcut.
Around the halfway point on the trek, one comes across a huge waterfall with a solitary dhaba café on the right side. It is recommended to fill your water bottles here, as the water is clean and pure. Most trekkers take a short break at this place named Shalom Waterfall Cafe and enjoy a maggi or some snacks, before making the final push to Kheerganga.
The trekking trail becomes a little difficult after the waterfall; a continuous climb begins which can be testing for first time trekkers. The path hereafter is well marked and there is little chance of anyone losing their way. Remember it is not a race and that everyone has their own pace, so walk slow and steady, enjoy the scenery of the forest and reach Kheerganga. The uphill climb is definitely tiring, the good bit is that there are nice spaces to sit in the shade of trees where the cool air helps much in relaxing. Remember to keep a lot of water with you and not empty it before you reach Kheerganga.
Around 45 mins before reaching Kheerganga, there is a beautiful view of a flowing waterfall on the path itself. There are two very scenic cafés with gorgeous views here. In case accommodation is not available at Kheerganga, one can sleep in the common space for a small charge.
When you’ve walked and walked, the path will wind one final time and the first of the yellow and blue tarpaulin covered huts can be seen. This is the start of Kheerganga, there is a cluster of huts and cafés near the temple and natural hot water spring which can be covered on a 10 minute walk. The temple and hot water spring pool is located on top of all the huts and campsites.
Where to stay in Kheerganga? : Kheerganga has become a very popular destination for young adventurers during the summer months. There are around 8-10 huts offering rudimentary staying facilities in Kheerganga. Depending on the season, weekend crowds and weather – it is easy to find accommodation in Kheerganga even if you haven’t booked in advance. There are options of private huts and rooms for couples at 400-500 Rupees per room. Common sleeping space is available (a comfortable bed and blanket) at around 100-200 Rs. per person. Remember that the bathrooms are mostly shared ones and it is almost impossible to find a room with an attached bathroom.
There are no hotels to stay at Kheerganga but simple places. All the staying places have either an open air café (during the day) and a closed eating space with heating arrangements for cold evenings. Some big cafés and restaurants have space for as many as 50-100 people to sit and eat at one point of time. Food is quite expensive at Kheerganga, so it is recommended to carry a packet or two of bread with nutella; and also carry chocolates to munch and provide energy while on the trek.
Some tented accommodation may also be available on the green meadows that is a short distance away from the other cafés. It is also possible to pitch your own tent by paying a small fee in Kheerganga. A few companies offer weekend trek packages to Kheerganga – with prices from Delhi, which may be a good idea for group travellers. Their common eating space is nice, and with an evening bonfire a packaged deal for Kheerganga may not be a bad idea.
Another option for trekkers can be staying in the common rooms at the place called Ashram, it is maintained by the monks, pandits and sadhus. Prices at the Ashram are 150 Rs per day per person including food. Meals include dall, rice and chapati.
If one is arriving at Kheerganga late in the evening, then it can become a dicey situation in case of bad weather when all staying options are found to be packed sometimes.
Local Legend of Kheerganga : Lord Shiva (some say it was his son Kartik) came to Kheerganga and is said to have meditated for thousands of years. The name Kheerganga literally translates to ‘milky white sacred water.’
The water of the natural hot springs is indeed white like milk and a bath in the same is considered sacred and meditative. The temple nearby is believed to be quite ancient too, and Kheerganga is the abode of Lord Shiva (according to the locals.) It is a spiritual site.
Important points : It can get quite cold in Kheerganga, carrying heavy woollens is advised even in the summer months. Mobile networks work in Barshaini, Kalga and Tosh. Kheerganga may have BSNL connectivity, but it is better to make important calls before you begin the trek. Water is available at dhabas at various points on the trek and location of waterfalls has been mentioned too in the trek route (to fill the water bottles.)
In Kheerganga, the restaurant owners obviously want you to buy their bottled water – but there is a small natural spring in a place called Ashram. Find it and discreetly fill your water bottles, nobody has a problem with it.
Kheerganga has become so popular that these days a small supermarket store has opened there; it has a reasonable collection of essential products and packaged eatables that may be required. A small bakery also sells chocolate pastries and other breads. It is advised to carry a power bank to recharge your electronic devices. ATM services in Parvati Valley can sometimes not work, so it is best to carry the required cash or withdraw from Bhuntar/Kasol. Try to carry as less weight with you in the backpack as possible, and leave the excess stuff either at Barshaini/Tosh/Kalga or the homestay you are staying at.
While it is possible to trek to Kheerganga almost throughout the year, in peak winters the path may be snowed out and the tents and other accommodation options may not be available. During off-season enquire beforehand from the villagers of Barshaini & Nakthan, with regards to the same. Guddu bhai from Barshaini has a big café and staying place in Kheerganga and can be contacted on 098054-44220.
There are separate enclosures for bathing for men and women in the hot water springs near the temple. People are expected to strictly observe the same. Please ensure that as responsible travellers you don’t litter the place, and try to maintain it as clean as possible.
Basic idea of the costs for trek to Kheerganga : Volvo tickets from Delhi to Bhuntar & back – 2000/-. Bhuntar to Barshaini (to & fro) – 200/-. Stay at Kheerganga (or other villages) – 200 per day. Food is expensive – Rs. 500 per day.
So for a 2-3 day trip, the expenses can worked to be roughly around 3500-4000 Rupees.
Other posts on Parvati Valley :
Nature’s delights, from a secret village in Parvati Valley
Heading to Manali after Parvati Valley? Check this : Finding the offbeat in Manali
A very helpful and comprehensive post.
Thanks Niranjan.
Nice post Shubham. I trekked to Kheerganga more than 20 years ago, when it used to be quiet and serene without any rush of trekkers, as it is now.
Thanks sir! Wow, amazed to know that. Must have really been quite an adventure at that time. 🙂
Yes, indeed it was Shubham
Thnks shubham I also need dis kind of travel guide for spiti valleyPls help me I m going there with my wife on may 10 Share ur thoughtsWe r going there on a rentl bike from shimla
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
Hey Mohit. There’s a comprehensive guide for Spiti too on the blog. Do check 🙂
This post will help a lot of people plan for the upcoming long weekend. Thanks for the informative post and the perfect timing 🙂
Many thanks budding writers for the appreciation 🙂
What an amazingly helpful post! Thanks Shubham. I haven’t trekked in the past 10-15 years! Want to make trekking as a frequent activity now onwards. Hope to do the Triund trek soon and your post on that is also very helpful.
Many thanks for the appreciation. Glad you like it. Best of luck for your treks; yes – Triund is really nice for a day trek and so is Chopta-Tungnath etc 🙂
Thanks for such a detailed guide Shubham! Very helpful. The last I trekked was almost 15 years back. It’s my life goal to trek very frequently now. Your post on Triund is also very helpful. Hope to do that soon.
very nice detailed post. It is a great help to travelers like me..Thanks! n yeah lovely pictures….loved them 🙂
Thanks for the appreciation. Glad you liked them 🙂
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Hey, a very detailed and informative post! Would you happen to know if we can rent tents at Kheerganga? We are a group of friends who dont want to carry our own tents while trekking, so we would like to know of facility to get tents is available at the top?
Thanks!
Hey Umang, thanks for the appreciation. Yeah, there are a few places that charge rent for tents but its not certain that you will find space there.
Hi
I came across your review about Kheerganga trek on treipadvisor.
I found it be very detailed and useful. So thanks for sharing that.
I am planning to go there sometime in September. I wanted to ask if you can share any contact details for stay in Kalga and Kheerganga.
I am look for the same kind of accommodation that you have uploaded a picture of.
You can directly to me @ anshulargal90@gmail.com
Regards,
Anshul
Hi Anshul. Thanks for the appreciation. You will find many homestays and guest houses in Kalga. Best of luck for the journey 🙂
Hey Shubham. That is an awesime informative post. Thanks a tin for that. Would you be able to tell of any contact details of any guides. We are geoup of 4 ladies who want to do kheerganga trek and any information would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Hey Veena! Thanks for the appreciation. So sorry, just saw this comment. Hope you had a great trek.
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Hi bro it’s pritam here. want to khow is there any contact number for lodging you can provide for kheerganga
Hey! Just saw this comment… The camps and other lodging places are all closed for the season right now.
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Dear Shubham,
Thank you so much for the information. It makes taking my entire family for the trek so much simpler!
Wow! I’m so happy to read that comment. Thanks and good luck Munira.
Hi ,I found this post very effective since i m planning to go for the trekking to kasol in the next week at the same time I would like to conifm about the opening of trek in March Can you Please let me know wheather the treak is open or Not.
Thanks Ashish.
Hi Shubham. Amazing post and pictures. Two things i wanna know. In which month did you go there? And i am planning a solo trio in may so is it advisable to book hotel in advance or i just go there and lookout for a place to stay and whether it would be expensive at that time of the year? Also tell me about the climate in may as i see in your post, climate seem so beautiful. Thanks in advance.
Thanks Pratik and good luck 🙂
Hey can you tell me from where to get ac volvo bus from delhi to bhuntar?
I’d suggest HRTC.
This was really helpful.. Thank you for ur insights..
Many thanks Rhythm. Glad it was helpful.
Loved your Trekologue Shubham! A great source of detailed info for all n more so for 67year trekkers like me!! Hugely helpful in planning my September trek in conjunction with my Sach Pass Pangi Nako Tabo ride!! Thank you again!!
Yay! So glad to know that Sharad. 🙂 To more adventures.
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Sir, do we have to take our camp or they offer theirs , or we can use ours too?
Please let us know.
Hey! Even if you take your own camp, you ‘ll have to pay a charge to pitch it. 🙂
Who collects this charge and how much? It’s ridiculous to charge people just to pitch a tent in the lap of nature at a remote location. Do they charge irrespective of where you pitch or its only for other earmarked locations?
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Hi Shubham,
It was a very nice article and pretty informative. I am planning a trip with friends in June. Have one question, if u can help me out on that. I am planning to take a bus from Delhi on 19th June evening and reach Bhuntar by early morning on June 20th. When does the bus service start from Bhuntar to Barshaini? Will it be possible to go for the trek on 20th itself.?
Thanks for ur help.
Hey Anindya… The bus service from Bhuntar to Barshaini starts quite early. If you are taking a volvo from Delhi; then the bus services will have already started before you reach Bhuntar. Happy hiking 🙂
Thankyou so much for the detailed information . It made my planning for this treck much simpler.☺️🙏
Happy travels 🙂
hi Shubham, I and my friends(a group of 8 ) are planning for this trek. Do you suggest going by a trekking operator or do a self-trek rather? it is scheduling around 8-10th May. And what would be the difference between the two options? I found one operator charging 4000 for 3N 2D.
Hi Arun; as a professional I charge a fee for my consulting. If you are interested, you can send me an email. Cheers and best wishes.
Lovely! What a detailed and helpful post! The world needs more travelers like you bro.
Thanks Ashish 🙂
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Thank you so much for the guidance and information. This is what I was looking for, a very helpful post! 😊
Many thanks Rigzin for the kind words. Hope you have a nice trip. 🙂
Very helpful, thanks a lot
Thanks Gaurish.
very enthuasim trek. i am 60 yr old . i want to trek kheerganga,tungnath chandershilla trek
Thanks sir and best wishes 🙂
Greetings,
I really enjoyed reading your article. It was great. I really appreciate it and picture was awesome.
Thank You.
Thanks Lyka and happy travels
A great blog! It helped me make my plans better. Thank you, Shubham!
Thanks Darshith. Have a great trip 🙂
Hello,
Thank you for such a great post. I am looking to travel to Himachel and Uttarakhand in October. Me and my friend are hoping to do a trek without a tent so that we can stay in villages and therefore interact with locals more than if in a tent. I have been trying to find treks that get away from the popular routes and the tourists, to places where not many foreigners visit but where we can travel without a tent. Do any treks come to mind that you could suggest?
Thanks for the appreciation. I’m happy to share with you detailed information with contact details, would you make a donation of 500 Rupees for this information for the cause that I support. If yes, I’ll send you a link with the payment details. Within 24 hours of receiving the payment, I’ll send across an email with the itinerary.
One of the best blogs about kheerganga…
Thanks 🙂
Im actually calling Guddu Bhai and working out a plan fro this weekend. 🙂
Happy travels Sahir 🙂
SHUBHAM, this was by far the most detailed and engrossing blog for a trek ever !!! Look forward to many more from you, perhaps with some more pics.
Thanks man! You should check the other posts too. 🙂
You did a great job. Really helpful. We are planning to go here in Oct but are worried about the permits and stay at the mountain. Cab you tell us how did you got the permit to trek as it is banned for trekking. Please.
Thanks man. Those days one did not require a permit.
This is by far the best guidance i have got… we went to the trip and everything was as described here… Thankyou so much!!
Thanks Akriti. Glad you had a good time 🙂
Nice post Shubham. Three things i need to know are 1) if its safe to camp there at night 2) Can i use my own tent ? 3) can i attend natures call somewhere far from campsites ? i mean considering it a holy place ?
Thanks Mihir … After the Forest Department’s recent issue of permits, these things may have changed but still seems ok to me.
can u advice me which month is best for this trek, i am planning for it in april?
Depends on your preferences. April is a good time to go to Kheerganga.
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Amazing blog. You have just covered almost everything i wanted to know. Great work !! Thank you for sharing :))
Thanks for the appreciation Prerna. Glad it helped.
Hey where is this Ashram place on top of h
Kheerganga and is any booking required?
Hey,
If we opt not to stay at top of the hill (Kheerganga) do you think we could make it down before night fall if we start the trek early?
It is there as described 🙂
Yes, its possible to make a day trip although it can be very tiring …
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Thanku so much for this information
I will surely go someday😇
Good luck Shailja
Nicely written article. Would surely help to new traveller.Keep it up.
Thanks Vijender.
It was very helpful and you are doing great job, Incase if you are traveling to meghalaya .I would like to join you may be or least get a nice trip guidelines from you ..sharing my email.id
Thanks Jyoti. You can also check the Meghalaya blog posts for details.