It was turning out to be an epic trip of sorts. On this sojourn, I had entered Pangi Valley across Saach Pass and after exploring this forbidden region had reached Udaipur in Pattan Valley (Lahaul). In more unforgettable adventures, I had totally fallen for Miyar Valley and after missing the only bus of the day; it was only luck that had ensured that I made it back to the main road. I still had no plan and was overjoyed when the next vehicle that stopped was headed to Trilokinath temple.
It was around noon that I reached Trilokinath village and the temple was hardly a five minute walk away. This region in Lahaul is called Pattan Valley and it was even more greener than other parts of Lahaul. HRTC’s excellent connectivity meant that there were regular bus services to the remote village of Trilokinath. There was a ceremony being held in Trilokinath temple and some kids were wandering around. It was a pretty sight, stone structures against a backdrop of pine forests capped with snow peaks.
Brief Introduction of Trilokinath Temple
Trilokinath temple is believed to be an 8th century temple and is located in Trilokinath Village across the Chandrabhaga river in Udaipur sub-division of Lahaul Valley. The sanctum sanctorum of the temple has a six armed deity that is worshipped as Lord Shiva by the Hindus and as Avalokiteshwara by the Buddhists. The locals believe that the deity was installed by Guru Padmasambhava himself. Trilokinath Temple is at a distance of 45 kms from Keylong and 16 kms from Udaipur. The temple and village lies at an altitude of 2700m.
I had explored the monasteries of Lahaul Valley; around Keylong on my numerous visits to / from Ladakh, Spiti and Zanskar and had heard from Lahaulas that the temples around Udaipur are a must visit. This was not the Udaipur of Rajasthan but a different Udaipur in Lahaul. There was a feast going on in the temple and someone also told me to go and enjoy the food but I had no idea about the timing of the bus and figured it was better that I see the temple first and wait for a ride that would take me to Keylong.
It was a big surprise for me when I realised that the temple has gone through extensive renovations and the building was a white structure. The location of Trilokinath temple was very dazzling though and snow mountains were visible in the far distance. It was a cloudy day when I had reached but the sun gradually took control. There were many pilgrims to pay their respects and also colourful Tibetan prayer flags decorated the exterior parts of the temple, signifying active Buddhist presence.
While removing the shoes, I noticed a small stone statue of Nandi bull. I went inside the temple but was unlucky when the priest said that the door to the main shrine is closed and will only open in the evening. A few locals also tried to reason with the priest that I have come from very far away but to no avail! Some of them got together and said that I must come for the Festival that is held at Trilokinath Temple in August.
It was already around 2 in the afternoon; I walked towards the main road to start looking for either a bus or any ride. It was a lovely spot to wait; Chandrabhaga river flowed in the valley below and was surrounded by lush green fields of peas, potato and other vegetables. After waiting for around an hour, I met a Nepali man who was in Trilokinath on work; he informed me that the bus is about to come and it will indeed go to Keylong!
I witnessed the confluence of Chandra and Bhaga rivers in Tandi and the clouds gave me a stormy welcome in Keylong! I’ve already written the next day(s) of the journey if you wish to read.
How to reach Trilokinath?
There are regular buses to Trilokinath from both Keylong and Udaipur in Lahaul.