Travel Guide to Mtskheta for a Day Trip from Tbilisi

On our recent summer trip to Georgia, we landed in Tbilisi and stayed for a couple of days to get acquainted with the capital city. We had kept five more days to spend in Tbilisi in the last leg of our journey before flying back to India. It felt only natural to start our sojourn by visiting the UNESCO World Heritage – 4th Century BC town; Mtskheta at the earliest. Mtskheta was the ancient capital of Georgia and can lay claim to be the cultural heartbeat of the country. In 2014, the head of Georgian Orthodox Church conferred Mtskheta with the title of ‘Holy City’.

First look of Svetitskhoveli Cathedral after getting down from the marshrutka in Mtskheta

Marshrutka / Minibus from Tbilisi to Mtskheta and back

The distance between Tbilisi and Mtskheta is hardly 20-25 kms and takes less than an hour even with Tbilisi’s busy traffic. There are no buses that ply between Tbilisi and Mtskheta and even though the official Georgian train website shows that passenger trains stop in Mtskheta, be advised that Mtskheta railway station is quite far (about 2 kms) from the town itself and train schedules are sporadic making it an unwise choice to try and visit Mtskheta by train from Tbilisi. Mtskheta lies in the historical Mtskheta-Mtianeti region.

Regular marshrutkas (minibuses) ply between Didube to Mtskheta and are the easiest way to reach Mtskheta from Tbilisi. These marshrutkas are usually 16-20 seater Mercedes Sprinter vehicles and run every 30 odd minutes starting from 7 am from Didube station while the last marshrutka for Mtskheta departs from Didube at 8 pm (or sometimes even later in the summer). We took less than 30 minutes to cover the 18 km distance from Didube to Mtskheta. We were not sure if the driver would take us into town so we decided to get down as soon as we saw the walk-only pedestrian street! Later, we came to know that the last stop in Mtskheta is the parking spot at the end of the town quite close to Old Mtskheta.

Where exactly to take the marshrutka at Didube?

We had booked a small family run hotel quite close to Samgori / Isani metro station for two nights as our flight landed in Tbilisi at the uncomfortable hour after midnight. From Isani metro station, it was quite easy to figure the Tbilisi metro and reach Didube station where a few taxi drivers offered us a ‘cheap’ ride to Mtskheta for 20 Georgian Lari (GEL). We politely declined their (expensive) offer and promptly found the Mtskheta marshrutka ticket counter. After confirming the 2 GEL per person one way ticket price with locals who were also waiting for the marshrutka for Mtskheta, we paid and got our paper tickets. It is important to remember that the last marshrutka from Mtskheta to Tbilisi (Didube) runs at around 8-830 pm and is likely to be full so it is best to time your return to Tbilisi by daylight to avoid any unforeseen adventure!

In principle, you can hire a taxi for Mtskheta anywhere in Tbilisi or even use a bolt or maxim taxi (internet app-based taxis) but the prices are likely to be standard in Didube. If you are a group of four, then your best bet is to get early to Didube and negotiate a good price with a taxi driver to take you to Mtskheta and also include the other sights of interest like the Shio-Mgvime monastery and Zedazeni monastery.

Introduction to Mtskheta

Mtskheta is the former capital of Georgia and an ancient city that was established between the 1st and 5th Century BC. It is located at a enviable point of the confluence of Mtkvari (Kura river) and Aragvi rivers and jaw-dropping views of the confluence can be seen from Jvari Monastery. Mtskheta has a number of monuments included in the UNESCO World Heritage, that was bestowed in the year 1994. The old Mtskheta town around the centrally located Svetitskhoveli cathedral is a bucolic sight with cobblestone streets and green mountains in the backdrop. Mtskheta’s importance of being steeped in Georgian culture is evident in the fact that it is a favourite place for Georgians to get married and for pre-wedding photoshoots.

This travel guide to Mtskheta includes all that you need to know about visiting Mtskheta on a day trip from Tbilisi. It includes details on – how to reach Mtskheta and transport options from Tbilisi, must visit attractions in Mtskheta, time taken for exploring, food, wine tasting, shopping, and timing your return back to Tbilisi.

History of Mtskheta

Mtskheta is one of Georgia’s oldest towns and was the capital of the Kingdom of Kartli in East Georgia from the 3rd Century BC till the 6th Century AD when the capital was shifted to Tbilisi after the discovery of the sulphur springs in Abanotubani. Mtskheta gained importance as it lies at a strategic location; at the intersection of trade routes from Byzantium, Syria, Roman Empire, Silk Road that resulted in a rich commercial exchange with the mingling of different cultures. Mtskheta remains the spiritual and religious centre of Georgia since Mtskheta is where Christianity was first embraced as Georgia’s official religion in the year 337 AD.

Accorded the UNESCO World Heritage Site status, the Historical Monuments of Mtskheta include Jvari Monastery, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Samtavro’s Convent. These three medieval religious establishments are home to precious relics of Christianity; painted frescoes and burial sites with graves of monarchs and royalty from the times when Georgia was a Kingdom. History lovers are in for a treat as the region around Mtskheta is rich in Old Georgian architecture and is dotted with churches, caves, archaeological sites, ancient chapels, palaces and forts.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

Originally built in the 4th-5th Century AD, Svetitskhoveli Cathedral is a stunning sight and is likely to be your lasting memory of Mtskheta. The present structure dates to the 11th Century AD and the Orthodox cathedral complex exudes a calm and spiritual vibe with the greenery amidst the mountain view. It is a perfect example of the medieval architecture of the Caucasus. As you enter the spacious cathedral complex from the street, you can see a number of women selling fresh flowers. It was a weekday when we visited and found it quite amusing to come across a number of weddings and see newlyweds getting clicked in the green lawns with the cathedral. I can only imagine the scene of wedding parties on weekends! Although it can get pretty crowded inside Svetitskhoveli cathedral, take your time to gaze at the frescoes and carvings.

A number of Georgia’s most important monarchs are buried at Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, including King Vakhtang Gorgasali, the founder of Tbilisi. Qvevri pots (for winemaking) can be seen scattered in the monastery complex and also don’t miss the beautiful bell tower built in a different corner of the entrance. Candles and souvenirs can be bought at the monastery shop located on the right after entering. There are scarfs and skirts available at the entrance if you are inappropriately dressed for entering the church.

Jvari Monastery

Also called the Holy Cross Monastery of Jvari; Jvari Monastery is one of the oldest monasteries in Georgia (by some accounts, the holy wooden cross was erected here in the 5th Century). According to legend – in the early 4th century, St. Nino, a female Christian preacher erected a large wooden cross on this site where Jvari Monastery was built later. The distance between Mtskheta and Jvari Monastery is 12 kms and round-trip taxis are easily available in Mtskheta for about 20 GEL. The 6th Century church in Jvari Monastery is located on top of a mountain and is the most sacred and revered church in entire Georgia. The chief pull of Jvari Monastery is the bird’s eye view of entire Mtskheta old town overlooking the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers.

While the exterior of Jvari Monastery is quite rustic and simple; the symmetric building is built in what can be called old Georgian architecture. It is perched on a hilltop and hiking to Jvari Monastery is possible via a trail from the park in Mtskheta; but not recommended unless you have an entire day out. If you have organised a taxi from Tbilisi, it may be a good idea to visit Jvari Monastery in the end so that you can enjoy the incredible view of Mtskheta town with Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the centre during sunset time! The sacred St. Nino’s spring locally revered to be a healing water source is a 15 minute hike from Jvari monastery.

Samtavro’s Convent

We had not planned our day in Mtskheta and wandered with an explorer’s air to find ourselves right in front of the Samtavro’s Convent. Samtavro’s Convent is a pleasant ten minute walk from main Mtskheta town. The monastery complex is set among gardens and has a relaxed, open vibe since it is relatively less crowded than the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. The church at Samtavro’s Convent was originally established in the 4th century and has been restored a number of times. The present day building of the main church was built in the early 11th century. Samtavro’s convent houses the grave of King Mirian III – the king of Iberia (Kartli kingdom) who established Christianity as the official religion in Georgia.

We drank and filled our water bottle from the spring water where the locals were also quenching their thirst. There was also a small chapel – St. Nino Chapel (Tsminda Nino) which is an active chapel with frescoes and a priest inside. While walking around the monastery grounds, take notice of the bell tower as well. On the other side of the entrance is the church shop where visitors can buy candles and souvenirs. While going back, we noticed old men and women asking for alms from visitors while some others were selling some dried herbs(?)

Samtavro Necropolis

The ancient cemetery of Mtskheta; Samtavro Necropolis is located just 500m away or a 5 minute walk from Samtavro’s Convent and is the most peaceful stroll in Mtskheta. This burial ground has been in use since the 3rd Century BC and is steeped in history. It also served as the burial place for the royal family. The Samtavro Necropolis or mausoleum is a lesser visited monument and can be called an offbeat attraction in Mtskheta.

Antioch Church

Antioch Church is a 4th-5th Century church built on the banks of the Aragvi river just before its confluence with Kura river. To reach here, take a walk in the residential by-lanes in Mtskheta old town and turn right for the riverside. There are hardly any visitors to be seen at the relatively austere-sized Antioch Church (also called St. Stephen’s Church). The church complex is pleasing with the greenery especially after seeing the crowds on the tourist trail in Mtskheta. Enjoy the sweeping view of Jvari Monastery and savour the blissful breeze of the river. Do not miss the colourful frescoes in the interior of Antioch Church. Due to lesser popularity of this attraction, I can denote the Antioch Church to be an offbeat place to visit in Mtskheta.

Shio-Mgvime Monastery

The 6th Century Shio-Mgvime monastery is set into a rugged hillside and lies at a distance of 12 kms from Mtskheta. Caves used by monks for meditation can be seen all over the cliff face of the hillside. There is no marshrutka or shared transport to visit the Shio-Mgvime monastery from Mtskheta or Tbilisi, hence it is best to discuss and finalise a taxi with other tourists for visiting Jvari Monastery and Shio-Mgvime to make it economical. Take some time to roam around the scenic monastery complex (accommodating about 2000 monks at one time) to see beautiful gardens housing two churches. The interiors of the bigger church have perhaps the most well preserved frescoes in Mtskheta. The smaller church is called the Shio Cemetery Church; in honour of the monk Shio who founded this site. The church shop sells excellent quality of honey and beeswax candles made on site!

Exploring Mtskheta on Foot : Heritage Walk in Mtskheta

Rather than making a checklist, the joy of travel lies in the unplanned and serendipitous encounters. The quiet by-lanes of this historical old town of Mtskheta are apt to check the rich architectural style of Georgian houses with the courtyards shaded with grape vines, elaborately carved wooden balconies and the greenery. We were enamoured with the heritage houses sporting a faint red of autumn in the trees, vintage cars, art nouveau signboards and decided that Mtskheta is worth staying for a couple of nights (at least) if we come to Georgia again.

Among other places to see in Mtskheta; Bebri Tsikhe (abandoned fortress on a hillock) easily reached by a 20-30 minute walk from Mtskheta, Zedazeni Monastery, the colourful mosaic painting outside the Mtskheta Archaeological Museum (not open); St. Barbara Church, in a different direction – Armaziskhevi Archaeological Site, Armazi Tsikhe (fortress), Armazi Monastery and a few other churches around Mtskheta.

Souvenir Shopping in Mtskheta

There are pedestrian streets (ocassionally used by cars) around Svetitskhoveli Cathedral square where vendors set up market stalls and souvenir shops. Tourists can purchase churchkela, carpets, quirky fridge magnets, spices, fresh juice, wine ice-cream in summer and in winter, mulled wine. Also on offer are wine, chacha (grape liquor), souvenirs like scarfs, Georgian caps and hats, handmade dolls, ceramics and paintings. Among unique souvenirs on sale are kantsi – traditional Georgian drinking vessel (now mass-produced), tklapi (fruit snack), and hand-painted fridge magnets.

This market in Mtskheta is a very touristy area so it is good to be aware that prices quoted can often be very high. It may be a good idea to bargain subtly and see if the seller offers a better price. After having gone around the other parts of Georgia over a good 16 days, we realised some souvenir sellers were offering really good deals like 1+1 on fridge magnets for 2 GEL. Although I don’t recommend buying mass produced souvenirs; but I can understand if someone wants to buy, then the market in Mtskheta may turn out to be a good choice. We found the prices in Tbilisi for the same stuff are much higher.

Wine Tasting in Mtskheta

Winery Khareba located right on the opposite side of the entrance of Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. The wine tasting is free as long as you buy a bottle of wine. Prices are fixed (unlike some other places in Mtskheta) at Winery Khareba and the staff is quite helpful in suggesting which wine to buy.

Handy Tips :

Since Mtskheta is primarily a religious destination for locals, dress and behave appropriately.

Carry a water bottle. Time your visit to the washroom/toilets when you go to a restaurant. Try to visit Mtskheta on a Sunday morning while mass is being held, and savour the authentic cultural experience of polyphonic singing very unique to Georgia.

Festivals in Mtskheta

14th October Svetitskhovloba Festival.

How to Pronounce Mtskheta?

Georgian spellings and pronunciations can be mind jangling and none more so than ‘Mtskheta’. This tongue twister is actually pretty easy to pronounce. The locals seem to ignore the first two letters ‘Mt’ and rapidly say ‘skheta’ with a stress on the h. For us, it took a while getting used to since it was our first day in the country. Thankfully, we weren’t caught on the wrong foot and learnt to pronounce Mtskheta like the Georgians do before committing a faux pas!

How to go from Tbilisi to Mtskheta?

Metro to Didube station. After reaching Didube station, you have to go through a market to get to the other side to reach the exact point for the Mtskheta marshrutka / minibus and the ticket window. Buy the tickets for 2 Lari per person. Shared taxis also ply about 5 GEL per person.

From Mtskheta to Tbilisi : Marshrutka stop in Mtskheta to get back to Didube is on the main road while coming back from Samtavro’s Convent.

Staying in Mtskheta

Mtskheta has an old world charm and warrants much more than just a day visit. We have already decided we will spend a couple of nights in one of the charming homestays of Mtskheta whenever we return to Georgia.

Where to eat in Mtskheta?

There is a row of restaurants in front of the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. We are a khachapuri and enjoyed fresh tap beer at one of those. Ornament Express was our choice but they had run out of food due to a party that day! Other recommended restaurants and cafés in Mtskheta are – Restaurant Check-in Garden, Café Tatin, Riverside Baginati, Tsiskvili. Favourite eateries of Tbilisi locals are on the way to Mtskheta after the diversion from the main road. I spotted a big crowd from the marshrutka both while coming and going. A few locals also got down on the way and while coming back our marshrutka was full but they took passengers for standing space.