Do yourself a favour! Go to Landour

98 Comments / Autumn, Food, Garhwal, Heritage, JOMO, Monsoon, Nature Stays, Photo Story, Spring, Summer, Timeless Villages, Travel Guide, Treks & Hikes, Uttarakhand, Wellness, Winter / By

It felt like a wild goose chase; the bus to Dehradun was supposed to leave at 9 pm and I was unable to reach on time. Sometimes Indian Standard Time is a good thing, you realise when the bus driver is courteous enough to wait for you till 930 because you have pre-booked the ticket. We are jolted in our sleep when the bus reaches Dehradun at 3. It wasn’t supposed to reach before 4, as per the UPSRTC website.

Read : Soul Searching in Rishikesh

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Stone construction with pretty flowers is a ubiquitous sight in Landour.

After snoozing at ISBT for the best part of two hours; we were told buses to Mussoorie & other parts of Uttarakhand leave from the Railway Station. After a comedy with the queues and the futility of schedules, I found seats on the miniscule bus. We were jolted from our slumber after reaching the last stop at Mussoorie Library. After numerous trips to Mussoorie many years ago, I had only one word on my mind – Landour.

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We strolled on the empty mall road, sipping chai while stupidly gawking at the white hail posing as snow. Locals warned us to take a cab and not attempt the uphill walk to Landour with our heavy bags. So, after more than 26 months on the road, I finally gave in and we paid 350 Rupees to a genteel taxi driver who dropped us from Picture Palace to Sister’s Bazaarin Landour. The road wound through narrow paths first crossing Landour Bazaar, then Char Dukan and finally leaving behind all civilisation to reach Sister’s Bazaar.

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I was loving the chills in the air as Landour ridge near Sister’s Bazaar is the highest point in Mussoorie at 2286m. The Sister’s bazaar acquired its name from the nursing sisters who lived near the British Military Hospital that was established in Landour at the beginning of the 20th century.

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Outside a home in Landour.

It was quickly understood that there was no possibility of cheap accommodation in Landour. We had left hotels and guesthouses behind in Landour Bazaar & Char Dukaan. We roamed the empty road and took in the smell of fresh air, friendly labradors were out for their morning stroll too. After some conversations with the locals, they decided to make us lucky by giving us a huge 2 bedroom cottage with a kitchen for 1000 Rupees.

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There were hardly any views due to the forest fires burning across Uttarakhand but that didn’t bother us. We walked among the dense forests, a mixture of cedar, oak and pine trees with beautiful messages hanging from signboards on the trees. We were in the most beautiful part of Landour and it was so tiny that the never ending walks turned out to be the best memory of our trip.

Read : My own episode of ‘Jailed Abroad’ in Garhwal Himalaya

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Inside the St. Paul’s Church on Sunday.

The paths in Landour are circular and you generally end up where you start from. I was besotted by the lovely architecture at Landour Language School. The Kellogg Memorial Church was adjacent and the Sunday Mass was a lovely event. In between we passed by houses with pots hanging by the dozen. The word ‘wow’ was constantly on my lips. It was a mighty surprise to see snazzy cars, and people eat away at the street side food at Char Dukaan which turned out to be really good after we were tired wandering around St. Paul’s Church and perusing the stained Belgian glass used in the artistic windows.

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Lovely messages on dustbins.

The lack of views meant the two structures at Lal Tibba were devoid of tourists and the owners were asking people to go to the roof for free. Few taxis from Mussoorie do make their way to Lal Tibba ferrying tourists to check this point off a list. We were happy to scurry away from there, taking unknown paths to the entrances of various British era cottages and walking past the cemetery with ornate tombstones and epitaphs.

Read : Finding Paradise in Uttarakhand

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The sun lights up the pretty Kellogg Memorial Church.

It was a pretty sight to see sunlight filter through the dense forests, creating beautiful patterns while the clouds played with the far away mountains. In all likelihood Delhiites filled Mussoorie’s clogged streets and bickered about the crowd, we basked in the glory knowing what Mussoorie was all about.

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The British sure loved Landour for its salubrious air under the pine trees.

Landour is the crown jewel of the queen of hill stations!

Read : An expert guide to Shimla

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P.S: I have safely stored the phone number of that colonial cottage to be shared with interested folks.

I shall write detailed and informative posts about my experiences. Have you been to Mussoorie too? What did you make of it?

98 thoughts on “Do yourself a favour! Go to Landour”

  6. Kevin S Ignatius

    Hey thanks for taking the time to write out your experiences. After much research I was in two minds about making the trip to Landour, but your post has sealed the deal. Would you be willing to share the number for the place you stayed at? I am a fair trade sort of guy and am open to trading it for a bottle of fresh peanut butter which I’m told is unique to Landour. Let me know what you think.

    Reply
  7. Abhishek

    Hey Shubham,
    Good depiction of Landour 🙂
    Can you please share the name/number and a few pics of the cottage

    Reply

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  14. ansh997x

    I was almost transferred to the place. I visited Landour in 2015, a FRIENDLY LABRADOR chased me and I had to run on the streets screaming. Everyone looked at me and started laughing. 😛

    Reply

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    1. shubhammansingka

      Thank you so much Amarendra for the kind words of appreciation. Sorry I couldn’t look at this earlier and hence was unable to reply. Hope you had a nice holiday in Landour. Look forward to knowing more about the experience.

      Reply

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  24. soloindiatravel

    Hi! I have been travelling for two years and I have been to Mussoorie. I had no idea about how beautiful Landour is then. I’m travelling for 45 days starting next week and I want to go back to explore Landour after seeing this blog. You’ve described it beautifully. I’m travelling with a German friend. Can you please share the contact of the cottage you stayed at? You can find me on Instagram by @ilunarang

    Reply
  25. soloindiatravel

    Hi Shubham! I’ve been travelling for 2 years now and covered Mussoorie before but I had no idea how beautiful Landour is until I read this blog. I’m travelling for 45 days and I’d love to see Landour the way you described it. Pease share the details of the cottage.

    Reply
    1. shubhammansingka

      Hi there… Thanks for the kind words. Send me an email and I shall be glad to share the same. Also, I’m not sure that the cottage still accepts outside guests or not. Happy travels, if you are in the mountains – maybe our paths will cross 🙂

      Reply

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  28. Shruti

    Your post is very enjoyable…kindly help with the cottage number and probably more homestays! 😁Can’t find your mail id

    Reply
  29. utsav talwar

    Thanks for sharing the love.
    I just spent 4 days in Landour myself and am in love. Your blog sums it up so well.
    Would love to hear about Homestays and places to crash at in this peaceful dreamy town. I stayed at domas which is wonderful accommodation too.
    All the best on your travels. 🌈

    Reply
  30. Ankit Anand

    Bro! looks like an amazing place…thinking to go there in August. Would it be a good deal? And can you share your email Id? I had to ask regarding that accommodation 😛

    Reply
  31. Christine Witton

    Love your description and especially your photographs of Mussoorie. They depict the true Mussoorie of the 50s and 60s. Yes, Mussoorie is now clogged with Delhites along the Mall – a sight best forgotten by travelling up to Landour.

    Reply
  32. Aliza

    Hello Shubhammasingka,

    Wonderful post, as always.

    We are heading to Mussoorie soon and I’d love the phone number of the cottage where you stayed. You can email me at aliza dot earnshaw at gmail dot come. Thanks in advance!

    Reply
  33. Anam

    Hi, this is an interesting post. I was considering visiting Landour in the next two weeks. Would you be so kind as to share the number of the cottage? You would be doing us girls a favour. Thank you.

    Reply
  35. Aashima Bhalla

    Lovely post. I am planning to celebrate my birthday there .
    If your blog is a guide to go by in sure it will be lovely. Could you please share the number of the cottage? Thanks. Would be a great help.

    Reply
  36. Unnikrishnan

    Bum Bum Bole!! That was an interesting write-up about a quaint station that’s Ruskin Bond’s home too.
    Been wondering about Landour and the experiences that it would offer a world weary soul like me… Your travelogue did the trick!
    Been lucky to have been posted to some amazing locales, Kashmir,Harsil, Konkan, Tawang, Mokokchung et al.
    My email address is juggernautnair@gmail.com.
    Hope to catch up with you! Safe travels!
    Unni

    Reply
    1. shubhammansingka

      Many thanks Unnikrishnan. Wow, those are some really awesome places. Feel free to connect on email / Facebook.

      Regards
      Shubham

      Reply
  38. Karan

    Great post.. Makes me wanna pack my bags for Landour right now. It seems like a lovely place. But yeah, really expensive as you pointed out. Could you please share the cottage details at karanrajadv@gmail.com? Would really appreciate your help here. Thanks and keep wandering!

    Reply
  39. Amateur

    First time I saw the pictures of Landour on your blog, I was literally smitten. I did travel in 2017 but couldn’t find an accommodation. Planning to visit again, if you can share the details of colonial cottage😄

    Reply
    1. shubhammansingka

      Hey! Indeed, Landour is a place to return again and again. The owner of the cottage doesn’t like to give it out for short term stayers these days.

      Reply

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  43. Vaibhavi Mane

    Hey!! Read your blog it was very helpful/ Me and my sister is planning a trip to landour in November. Pls can u share the no. of home stay folk with name plzz that will be a great help.

    Reply
  44. kishan

    Shubham- enjoyed reading your story. Landour is one of my fav places and have visited almost 20 times, albeit for a few days everytime.I am hoping to visit landour next month and spend 3-4 weeks there. Would you be able to recommend a good home to stay at?

    Reply
    2. Bedwati Pani

      Hi Subham, your blog is amazing. I am planning to visit Landour for a week. Could you please share the details of the cottage?
      M

      Reply
      1. shubhammansingka

        Thanks, M. The cottage owner usually doesn’t like the number to be shared with short term visitors.

  46. Swati Sureka

    Hello Shubham. Beautiful explanation of the wonderful place. I have explored many hidden places after reading your blogs. This time planning to go to Landour. Would you please like to share the details of the cottage.

    swati.sureka11@gmail.com

    Reply
    1. shubhammansingka

      Hi Swati! Thank you so much 🙂 The owner has stopped giving the cottage for short term stays.
      Happy travels.

      Reply
    1. shubhammansingka

      Hi Malvika, thanks for the appreciation. I’ve been told that the cottage guys have stopped giving it out for short term stays currently. Happy travels.

      Reply

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