In 100 % Muslim Ladakh I had arrived into their meagre home and hence this startled expression, ‘Who are you?’Aging gracefully, a lady in Turtuk. Isn’t she pretty?The man credited with Turtuk’s first love marriage! I listened to the story as his wife giggled away.Turk was once a part of the Yabgo dynasty that ruled Baltistan and served an active trade route to Ladakh, connecting it to Yarkand and Kashgar China and Samarkand in Uzbekistan on the Silk Route.He recalls that during the war of 1971, locals from nearby villages fled to major towns in the nearby Baltistan region. But the people of Turtuk decided to stay.Innoncent, infectious smiles. The Army’s Sadbhavna Project has worked wonders for people living in this reclaimed village.
Turtuk is a very conservative village, a 100 percent Muslim settlement with a Buddhist Monastery (Surprised?!) in Ladakh.All in one room – Kitchen, sleeping room and a swing for the kids. If you ever thought money made people happy, then no. Love makes people happy.Archery is popular among the the villagers of Turtuk who are fair and rosy-cheeked with aquiline features. Locals claim that they are of Aryan descent with Central Asian and Tibetan roots.Utterly raw, almost barbaric faces from all the hardships that life has bestowed on the people of Turtuk.It is January and the trees are all crimson, the Shayok is freezing and emerald green – the most rudimentary form of cricket is being played on the road.A Ladakhi in Turtuk, fancy haircut and what not – Let me remind you; the nearest barber is almost 100 kms away in Diskit.Girls are never too shy of posing; in conservative Turtuk this was a welcome sight when she saw me with a camera and demanded to be clicked!A typical winter’s day in Turtuk, the sun is out and the whole village walks and greets each other.What would you like? ‘I would like to steal a smile.’She looks mean, but actually was the one who helped me find accommodation when everything in Turtuk is closed.Men of rare artistic ability abound in Turtuk.
Kids don’t care whether its India or Pakistan; all they know is to have fun!Shy Balti kids at the meagre home their father was kind enough to open for me. Their staple diet is buckwheat dishes and apricots in any form, the best quality is called ‘Halman’.
And I’ve saved my favourite for the last.
Her ageless features, cracked and shrivelled skin, dirty, chapped fingernails. Those half opened eyes that have seen decades go by. It almost feels as if she would crumble if someone touched her.
On my various interactions with the villagers, they tell me how happy they are after years of turmoil to become a part of India. It hurts me that the borders I am so fascinated by are important precisely because of how easily their drawing causes untold suffering of separations.
Jullay, I say; ‘seikha shokh’ they plead (Balti for – Come, sit).
41 thoughts on “Portraits that speak, from Turtuk”
These portraits are just stunning Shubham – especially that last one! I love the shots of the children smiling and playing, and you’re right, love does make people happy, much more so than money ever can.This was so interesting to read through too, I love learning about different cultures and these hidden worlds. Great post. – Tasha
Not sure about all, but these portraits surely do speak!! I could visualize the day to day life in Turtuk by just glancing at these portraits! lovely post, Shubham 🙂
What a humane post Shubham! People are same everywhere yet different and thats what makes them unique and interesting. The rosy cheeks are irresistible ♥ The human faces speak volumes and you have photographed them so well. 👍
Do you still have those apricots left? If yes, then maybe I’ll plan a visit to Jaipur 🙂
What a collection of memories! The cricket picture is fascinating, the cool haircut astounding! Where do they learn these from, I can’t help wondering. Such limited access to the world beyond!
Understand what you mean by borders, it’s never easy visiting places where the “border” looms large. Can imagine this being a precious visit!
Some really candid shots.And l must say that we are not that much conservative that you got suprised on seeing a Buddhist monastery. I’m sure people there have much more than those barbaric faces,the last photo is of my granny who’s +95 in age and trust she’s fit enough to run in a marathon
Hello Ghulam Hussain… I think you have taken it in the wrong spirit. Please do check my other posts on Turtuk before making a comment like that. Cheers.
These portraits are just stunning Shubham – especially that last one! I love the shots of the children smiling and playing, and you’re right, love does make people happy, much more so than money ever can.This was so interesting to read through too, I love learning about different cultures and these hidden worlds. Great post. – Tasha
Aww, I can’t thank you enough for having been a constant admirer and supporter of my work. Many many thanks Tasha.
More than welcome!
Not sure about all, but these portraits surely do speak!! I could visualize the day to day life in Turtuk by just glancing at these portraits! lovely post, Shubham 🙂
You made my day with that compliment. Thanks
Story telling pictures!! 🙂 Beautiful is an understatement!
Many thanks Divyakshi for checking it out. Glad you like them 🙂
Amazing story telling as always.
Thank you so much sirjee
Your way of capturing true emotions and then writing it into words is absolutely exceptional. For you photography I can say that- Yes Images do speak!
Thanks for the generous compliment 🙂 I would love to meet you when I come down to Alwar, over the famous kalakand.
That’s great..
I came here from Joshi’s….what a marvellous gallery!
Yay! Danke
so many cool faces 🙂
Thanks, much 🙂
Excellent photography.
Many thanks Fred 🙂 Glad you like them.
Exquisite post…real treat for the eyes. Thank you for sharing.
Woohoo! Thats a big compliment coming from you Svetlana. Thank you so much.
Lovely series 🙂
Thanks Deepak! Glad you like them.
What a humane post Shubham! People are same everywhere yet different and thats what makes them unique and interesting. The rosy cheeks are irresistible ♥ The human faces speak volumes and you have photographed them so well. 👍
Yay! Many thanks for checking it out. Cant help but flash a wide smile with that comment 🙂
Do you still have those apricots left? If yes, then maybe I’ll plan a visit to Jaipur 🙂
What a collection of memories! The cricket picture is fascinating, the cool haircut astounding! Where do they learn these from, I can’t help wondering. Such limited access to the world beyond!
Understand what you mean by borders, it’s never easy visiting places where the “border” looms large. Can imagine this being a precious visit!
Excellent pictures and writing Shubham .
Thanks so much sir. Means a lot coming from you.
Some really candid shots.And l must say that we are not that much conservative that you got suprised on seeing a Buddhist monastery. I’m sure people there have much more than those barbaric faces,the last photo is of my granny who’s +95 in age and trust she’s fit enough to run in a marathon
Hello Ghulam Hussain… I think you have taken it in the wrong spirit. Please do check my other posts on Turtuk before making a comment like that. Cheers.
That is beautiful series of portraits from Turtuk, expressive and engaging….the old man with a spec and two young sisters – best in the series for me.
Thank you so much Subhadeep 🙂 So glad you liked the collection of portraits