Two Days in A Paradise called Nongriat

After reaching Nongriat in the dark, the first place that we went to was the Community Guest House on the left just before the double decker bridge. It is also called Nongriat Village Guest House and is the first place that comes upon reaching the village. The price asked was 200 Rupees per person and also included dinner. It seemed like a nice little place but there were a few tourists drinking alcohol and we decided to try our luck at Serene Homestay, run by Byron. There were other homestays too, but it was dark and we didn’t want to waste more time trying.

The affable owner Byron of Serene Homestay has the distinction of initiating tourism in Nongriat.

Nongriat village had a nice and relaxed vibe to it and few kids roamed around the open space near Byron’s home while some huddled near the TV. There were many travellers sitting and playing carrom in the dining area of the homestay. I asked Byron for a cheap room and he suggested that I take a bed in the dormitory on the lower floor; which cost around 150 Rupees. Eldad and Erica had got a room for around 350 Rupees. The dormitory was a nice space with 5 beds laid side by side in an open verandah and the sound of a nearby stream provided the right music to start my love affair with Nongriat.

At the secret lagoon near Nongriat… I was happy to join the other guys who had found a nice spot away from the main view point.

It was dinner time straightaway which was priced at around 100 Rupees per person. There were bowls of veggies, dall, rice, salad, and french fries and it was self service system. The place had a traveller camaraderie and I was instantly friends with everyone who was staying there. There was a man from Germany who had been there for a few weeks, another guy from UK had been exploring the region for months, and old hippie lived in a hut nearby and was happy to while away time and a surprising entry was an Indian who had been living at Serene Homestay for over a month. Among some people leaving the next day was a musician from Kerala and a lawyer from another part of India.

Typical dinner activity at Serene Homestay in Nongriat… it is so simple and yet so enriching to feel as a part of the family when you are at this place.

We played carrom after dinner and even the kids and Byron joined us. It seemed like a perfect life, where everyone was happy and there was no emphasis of speed of any type. There was only one rhythm in Nongriat, and it was slow. Even the water flowing in the stream had a melodious hum rather than a rushing sound to it. One by one we all said our goodnights to each other and were in deep slumber with a lovely breeze blowing.

Totally enjoying slow travel in Nongriat; where time seems to stand still in this pretty village in Meghalaya.

The next morning I was woken up early with the sound of the chirping birds and also because sunrises in the northeast happen early. There were also a few tents set up in the open air verandah for travellers who would like the camping experience. At Byron’s homestay, everyone was expected to keep their own account of food and pay it when one checked out. I asked for a fresh fruit bowl and chai for my breakfast and then topped it with a round of french toast.

Read : A Backpacking Guide to Meghalaya

A bird’s eye view of Nongriat village, these tall trees are mostly arecanut trees and that white structure is a church (if memory serves me right.)

The long time stayers were headed what they called the ‘selfie pool’ and also asked me if I wanted to come. I was keen on going to the Rainbow Waterfalls and was delighted to know that it was on the same way as the lagoons that the others were heading to. Among other secrets, the joys of Nongriat included pristine pools and lagoons, hanging suspension bridges, rainbow waterfalls, the Umshiang double decker root bridge (as it is over the Umshiang river) and the various folklores of the Khasi tribals.

Living root bridges with a modern twist using iron cables to make it sturdier.

Even though I had arrived only one night earlier, Nongriat’s general friendly vibe meant that I felt as if I had been there for a long time. The air was nice and fresh and we all left with our daypacks. In less than 15 minutes, we reached the place from where the lagoons are just a short walk away. I waved goodbye to the folks and promised to join them after coming back from the Rainbow Falls. The path to Rainbow Falls was the same and I was told I would reach there in around 30 minutes.

Living in harmony with nature… cool breeze, fresh air and yummy fruits… what more does man need to be happy?

I heard the Rainbow Falls before I saw them! It was an incessant climb for my already wobbly knees (remember last day’s trek from Nohkalikai Falls to Nongriat?) It was a cloudy day and that meant the colour of the water was a beautiful blue but there was no rainbow to be seen. I chose a rock where with a nice view of the waterfall and the pool below it. A few youngsters from nearby villages (presumably) also reached the Rainbow Falls and were having a jolly good time with packed picnic lunch.

The Rainbow Falls is a must visit place when one is spending time in Nongriat.

Two adventurous boys went right down to the base of the waterfall and began swimming in the super cold waters. There was a huge rock near the blue lagoon and one of them climbed on top of it for superb photographs. For a brief while even the sun came out but the rays were not on the waterfall and again no rainbow! When I saw the mist coming in around noon, it was time to turn back and join my newfound friends at the ‘selfie pool.’

One of the boys has climbed this rock and another one is seen … pristine colour of water felt magical.

They were perched on a superb vantage point near the intersection of two lagoons and I had to wade through knee deep water to get there. When I asked them the reason for this name; they said that there most Indians who came to the pool just did it for the selfie photographs and that they had no intention of spending time here! Haha, and hence they named it selfie pool.

Nohkalikai Waterfalls
The incredible sight of Nohkalikai falls.

The foreigners are experts with the wood collecting and lighting a fire and make maggi, the packets of which they have carried from the homestay. One of the guys has a kettle too and another one is carrying the local honey, someone goes and collects some bay leaf and within no time our concoction is ready. They have carried glasses too and I relish this fantastic moment. Out of nowhere, an old hippie has made his way to the pool. He is known to everyone and has the jolly good nature of a happy old man.

Our chaiwalla 😛 .. Posing, but not in a selfie pose! Ha ha

The water is so clear that we can see the pebbles and rocks at the bottom. At around 3 in the afternoon, when everyone has had their fill of swimming and enjoying in the water; we head back to Byron’s homestay. These guys have been around for long and fill me in with some excellent knowledge.

Somewhere on the trek back to Tyrna village.

They have observed that almost all visitors to Nongriat inexplicably just come there for a day trek; i.e. start the trek early in the morning from Tyrna, spend some time in Nongriat, and go back to Tyrna on the same day. I was really surprised to know that, especially because of the simple reason that the trek up and down is excruciating for the knees… and to do both the legs in a single day is inexplicable. Maybe it is the paucity of time. I am sure everyone wishes they could have spent some time in Nongriat, when they reach here and cherish the idyllic paradise it is.

At the unique living root bridges, it is incredible to see how man has shaped these roots over the years.

There are a few people near the double decker living root bridge and some are relaxing and dipping their feet in the water pools beneath the bridge. I roam around, sit for a bit, talk to the lady managing the ticket counter of the double decker root bridge and head back to the homestay. It is a tranquil evening in the village, the sky changes colours like a masterstroke by a painter but this time I’ve kept my camera in the bag and choose to savour the moment rather than capture a photograph. Later at night, we sit and gaze at the moon while playing carrom; Byron rolls a joint and everyone is merry.

Lush green paths lit up by the pretty sunrays filtering through the trees… Magical Meghalaya.

The pool also operates as a lounge area for the travellers, who can dip their feet in and relax in the crystal clear water. Sometimes tourists play guitar at the site and enthral other visitors.

The double decker root bridge, a UNESCO World Heritage Site is the most popular attraction of Nongriat in Cherrapunjee region.

Next morning, I woke up late and met a few interesting people who were on a day trip to Nongriat. After a hearty breakfast, I made the account and paid Byron and headed to Tyrna village, which is the preferred way for the trek to Nongriat. It was around 11 am and the trail was a descent on cemented path first, through the forest. The scenery was lush and there were numerous water crossings on dangling bridges, but I was used to it now. The sun was becoming very strong and I had already started perspiring.

A suspension bridge in Nongriat. It was this one we crossed in the night before reaching.

After 10 odd minutes of an easy trail, a sea of never ending stairs appeared. I crossed a few locals on a bridge who had began from Tyrna village in the early morning hours and were about to reach Nongriat. The scenery was magnificent but the non stop climb was taking its toll on the knees. Plus, I had a heavy backpack too. After walking for an hour, I came upon a villages on the way. There were a few shops selling snacks. A small signboard indicated the way to the living root single decker bridge.

A typical shop on the trekking trail from Tyrna to Nongriat.

Most of these shops were run by women. In Meghalaya, the Khasi tribals follow matrilineal culture. After the wedding, the husband of the youngest daughter goes to live with his wife’s family, who owns the property. Another interesting fact is that the children take on the surname of the mother. Interesting, is it not?!

My knees tremble and legs shake from the continuous climb. The slippery and swaying suspension bridges have given way and all I am doing is climbing approx. 3000 stairs to get back to the road at Tyrna.

Just before reaching Tyrna village main road.

After coming back, I hear about the news that the government is considering building a road in Nongriat valley : I have mixed feelings about it; in a place with such outstanding natural beauty, culture, and beautiful harmony between man and nature have sustained for centuries, a road might jeopardise the delicate balance between man and nature that has been maintained for so long.

Khasi language is said to bear a strong resemblance to Cambodian.

Currently, Nongriat valley itself is only accessible by foot, thereby automatically limiting the number of visitors to a manageable level.

On the way I pass stacks of bay-leaf, trees with jackfruit, pepper and betel-nut trees, bamboo trees and many other herbs, ferns and other greenery. The villages are pretty and have small huts on a raised platform, built with wooden planks and a colonial-style small verandah. It is nice to take small breaks on the climb up and chat up with the locals.

After finally making it to the road in Tyrna village, I was happy to click the church and gaze at the colourful houses before reaching the highway from where I was more likely to find a vehicle that would take me back to Cherrapunjee.

Yummm… the breakfast bowl at Serene Homestay is indeed lovely!

More about Living Root Bridges :

A living root bridge is a unique natural wonder so important that the Umshiang double decker bridge is in the UNESCO world heritage list. The living root bridges are made by guiding strong roots of indigenous rubber trees by villagers over decades to interlace with each other and form a single bridge strong enough to support the movement of people.

A smooth highway like bridge!! One of the easier ones in Nongriat valley.

Traditionally, the roots were guided across spaces by using the straight trunks of betel nut trees for increased support. These days, cables are also used as a base for root bridges. Umshiang, the double-decker root bridge in the Nongriat village, is around 200 years old. There are many living root bridges in this region of Meghalaya. The one at Mawlynnong village is popular with tourists because the village is accessible by road.

My favourite photograph of a bridge in Nongriat.

How to reach Nongriat?

From Shillong to Cherrapunjee is around 65 kms. Tyrna village is around 20 kms from Cherrapunjee and a few buses and shared taxis also ply regularly between Cherrapunjee and Tyrna. Thereafter it is a trek from Tyrna village, the double-decker root bridge at Nongriat is approx. 4 kms away. The path consists of a continuous downhill movement of 3,000 steps which passes through Nongthymmai and Mynteng villages.

Nongriat valley is a land of tales and legends, and myriad waterfalls falling from great heights. We stumbled upon secret pools and lagoons in the forest and had my most memorable experience in the north eastern region of India.

Bye bye Nongriat Valley.

Also read : Spiti Valley in Winter : A Travel Guide

A Detailed Travel Guide for Chopta, Tungnath, Chandrashila Trek

Khardung La in Winter : Part 1

The Goodness of Strangers : Curfew in Kashmir

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33 thoughts on “Two Days in A Paradise called Nongriat”

  1. Nongriat definitely qualifies to be termed as a ‘Slice of Paradise’. You have captured it in pictures so well that anybody would immediately include Nongriat in their places-to-travel list. It’s great!

  2. Have travelled through 66 Country’s around the Globe and entire India except Lakshwadeep Islands and the North East.Will be visiting North east in March 2018 and your blog has provided excellent information.Hope to do this trek at my young age or in other words the oldest trekker to “Double Decker Living Root” bridge.!

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  5. Shilpi Samantray

    Hi Shubham, Your article was very helpful and it’s beautifully written. How can I book my stay at Scerene Homestay?

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  7. Hi, Very useful information! I am planning to travel on the last week of December… Can you give me an idea of how things will be at this time of the year??

  8. I came across your blog accidentally when planning a trip to Manipur. Earlier this year I went to Sohra for two days (was a side trip from Guwahati), and was one of the unfortunate that you mention – single day descent and ascent to Nongriat! Really wanted to go to the Rainbow falls too, but had to get back to Guwahati by the evening.

    Thanks so much for this series, it makes my resolve to go back for a longer and slower trip stronger.

    Safe travels, Shubham!

  9. Vinod Madathil Sasi

    Dear Shubham, last two days I’ve been reading many of your journey tales and it is lovely! You have a way with words and pictures and your travel style is the right way to explore. Keep traveling and penning buddy. I am planning our first journey to Meghalaya and Assam. Would be helpful if you could give some advice. We have our 8-year-old daughter with us and all three of us have done treks. For doing Nongriat and rainbow fall is a one-night stay at Nogriat enough considering the trek from Tyrna to Nongriat and then stay overnight, next day trek to Rainbow falls and back to Tyrna? Thank you

  10. Great article! Could you please share the contact number of Byron stay owner to inquire about stay availability as there is no online booking option. Please WhatsApp me on 8461830369. Thank you 😊.

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