Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary & Staying in FRH

There is a certain charm in visiting popular touristy places in the off-season. The beauty can be enjoyed at a slow pace with no rush around. And I was also looking for much needed comfort, especially after a back breaking trip across the North-Eastern states North-Eastern states of Nagaland and Manipur. I had rushed straight from Delhi airport to board a train for Pathankot as we headed to Chamba. A shared sumo ride got us across Banikhet and Dalhousie to reach the starting point of Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary, Lakkar Mandi.

Chamera Dam
Surreal sight of the Chamera Dam on our way from Chamba to Banikhet.

It was a lazy afternoon at H20 Chamba and other people of the group were wondering if they should go to Jot. I suggested Dainkund would be a better choice. Like most other times, this was just a random plan and a taxi was summoned. The only intent for the day was to click some good pictures, have a nice time and come back to Chamba, where we had settled ourselves to enjoy a relaxed weekend, but nature had its own plans for us.

Just as we passed Dalhousie and the sumo took a turn, I saw this from the window…

The air was understandably cold when the sumo was in shade and we clung close to our solitary jackets. It was a clear day and the views over Chamera Dam were breathtaking. As we approached Banikhet, the snow-clad peaks were in their full splendour with the backdrop of the cloudless blue sky.

Welcome to Lakkar Mandi – entrance point of the Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary.

By the time we reached the intersection point for Kalatop (Lakkar Mandi) making our way through the touristy rush of Dalhousie jam packed with Delhi and HR vehicles, it was already 3 pm. There were many vehicles driven by outsiders that had got stuck causing a traffic jam and it was left to our sumo driver to clear it. I remember saying that the authorities should do something about this in tourist areas during snowy times.

Some people were also enjoying their drinks in the snow, while intermittently playing cricket!

The roads to Dainkund peak and Kalatop were snowed out and closed for traffic while day-trippers were enjoying their time in the white snow near Dalhousie. The sun is rapidly going behind the mountains and we walk past the entry gate to Kalatop Khajjiar Wildlife Sanctuary.

View while eating our late lunch at Lakkar Mandi before beginning our hike to Kalatop.

We are 7 of us and I cheekily suggest if everyone is ok with the idea of staying at Kalatop FRH (Forest Rest House), we can spend a memorable night there. Distance of Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary is 3kms from the entrance gate at Lakkar Mandi. It seemed difficult to walk 3 kms and then go back due to the snow clad paths, it would take too much time. A few locals walk past and assure us that we can stay at homestays near the Kalatop FRH. After a bit of cajoling, we decide that it is indeed a super idea to stay inside the Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary for the night.

No entry for vehicles : I am not sure about the status of official entry for tourists. It saved us 250 Rs. per person though.

Everyone was hungry too and we quickly cross the gate again and have aloo paranthas and chai at one of the dhabas at Lakkar Mandi. We dig into the piping hot paranthas and try finding out the phone number of the caretaker at the Kalatop FRH. The movie buffs among us, having witnessed the beauty of the FRH in the bollywood movie Lootera, reminisce dreamily.

Straight out of a fairytale : This is an unedited phone shot, mind you!

Lootera was shot at this colonial architectural marvel, and we had a blooming desire in our hearts to relive those virtual moments by spending some time at this splendid house located in the middle of nowhere. And now that we were so close to Kalatop, a chance had to be taken!

Winter wonderland : And thus we began our hike to Kalatop Khajjiar Wildlife Sanctuary!

Everyone wanted to pee; and it was difficult in the frozen public loo near the entrance. The official entry office was closed, someone told us we should be glad at not having to pay the ticket of Rs. 250 per person. Finally, we started our walk on the snow covered path leading to Kalatop. The 3 km walk amidst the dense deodar and fir forest was an experience to remember. The pristine snow clad Himalayan peaks, the stark whiteness of the undisturbed snow leisurely spread across the walking trail, and the multiple hues of the setting sun painted a surreal picture.

We were almost rushing to try and make sure we got to Kalatop FRH before dark. The landscape felt very Christmas like with fresh snow on the pine trees.

While words fail me in describing the beauty of that very moment, it will stay etched in my memory for a long time. We were dazed by the pristine beauty all around us and almost forgot that we are yet to arrange for our stay at the FRH.

Since there wasn’t much chance to click with the dslr camera, I had to try and make do with the phone. Magical colours.

By the time we reached the gate of this winter wonderland, it was already approaching 7 pm and was almost dark. Not a single soul was around and we had the entire FRH to us- the only problem was we were yet to find the caretaker. The breathtaking beauty was accompanied by bone chilling cold and none of us were prepared to be in out in the cold in sub-zero temperatures (we weren’t even carrying our day packs and were completely at the mercy of the weather gods).

It was serene to walk through the jungle with snow all around and such incredible scenes for company.

God bless the pahadis for they always come to my rescue – one of the fellow travellers was from Shimla and used various permutations and combinations of his local connections to get our booking confirmed at the FRH. 2 rooms were opened and we cozied ourselves in the warm wooden cottages. After much roaming around, we managed to locate the caretaker in a nearby dhaba on the far end outside the Kalatop Forest Rest House boundary.

While the snowy path was slippery, the pahadis among us were rushing ahead while we gazed in awe at these surreal views of the Himalayas.

Dinner was had in a nearby dhaba and the simple rice, daal and sabzi made up for the hard work and coming to Kalatop in the winter cold felt worthwhile. We ate like hungry beasts because the rajmah was supremely delicious! Conversations flowed and stories were shared, while soaking in the feeling of being in a world far away. Snow covered our pathways and surroundings in the FRH and for a bit we also played with the icicles hanging on the roof. I had a gala time learning night photography from the pros, Nitish & Harish.

Astrophotography, all thanks to Nitish and Harish.

Before we would die with the cold, a pleasant discovery saved our night. The rooms had heaters hidden in the uppermost cupboards ensuring that we had a sound sleep. Leaving the chilly night behind us, we woke up to the welcoming warmth of the morning sun. The chai and aloo paranthas we had on the rooftop dhaba overlooking the snow clad Himalayas was an experience worth cherishing. Declaration of election results for Himachal was on the same day and the locals were animated in their excitement.

Icicles hanging on the cottage in Kalatop Forest Rest House.

While I do promote solo travel as a means to discover oneself; travelling with like-minded, equally crazy travellers helps one discover the world of meaningful conversations; beyond the world of Facebook and Whatsapp. And this was one such trip where the cold and the lack of anything else to do meant it was the crazy stories that made everyone laugh their heart out.

While our teeth chattered in the morning cold, a steaming cup of chai with this stunning landscape helped.

Go to Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary in the winters if you wish to get lost in the quietude of nature. There are options to stay other than the Kalatop Forest Rest House.

Upper floor of the dhaba … dhaba with a view at Kalatop !!

About Kalatop Khajjiar Wildlife Sanctuary and Kalatop FRH : Kalatop is located approximately 12 kms from Dalhousie and is a part of the Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary. It comprises an area of 17 Sq. Kms. This semi-high altitude sanctuary is located at an altitude of 2500 meters above the sea level.

Highly recommend all nature lovers to stay at Kalatop Forest Rest House at least once.

The FRH was built around 1925 during the time of the British Raj and is now a famous tourist attraction. While one can drive to the FRH during the summer months, the only way to reach the FRH in winters is walking on the snow clad path for around 3 kms. Vehicle entry is closed to the Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary after snowfall in winter. There is a variety of wildlife to be seen in the Wildlife Sanctuary.

Check : Encounters at the end of the world in Himachal Pradesh

The haunting background music of Lootera movie came rushing back as I saw this photograph.

Kalatop FRH has basic amenities and is apt for someone looking to purify their mind & soul by the beauty of the nature, songs of the cool wind passing through the age old trees and majestic views of the glistering white Himalaya. I highly recommend it as a weekend destination from Delhi and Chandigarh with excellent volvo connectivity. There are direct HRTC Himsuta Volvo from Chamba to Delhi, Delhi to Dalhousie and return.

We walk through the white paradise again in the morning to get back to Lakkar Mandi and onward to Dalhousie – Chamba.

Since we were short of time (the sumo driver was keen on going back to Chamba soon) we could not explore the temple located nearby. There is a trekking route to Khajjiar from Kalatop which passes through the sanctuary (12 kms). There are other beautiful walking trails in and around the rest house which can be explored at leisure. We started walking back after a quick breakfast and made it to Lakkar Mandi in less than an hour.

Co-travellers running around in the snow and doing crazy things!

Other posts : A Roadtrip Without a Plan: Destination No. 1 Khajjiar

Top Experiences and Places to Visit in Barot Valley

Haha, what am I so sad about! Trying to pose like cool.

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16 thoughts on “Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary & Staying in FRH”

  1. Pingback: Jibhi & Chehni Kothi : A Travelogue – A boy who travels

  2. Pingback: Kalatop: Poetic Beauty – Travel – my best teacher

  3. I chanced upon your blog/website when browsing through Kalatop and I am so glad that I did. I remember going to Dalhousie six years ago, much enamoured by Lootera and Kalatop that they had depicted therein. Sadly I was there in October and every corner of Dalhousie had tourists all over! But Kalatop was such a welcome change. 🙂

    And I was going through your other posts. They are beautiful and the pictures stunning.

    1. shubhammansingka

      Hey! I remembered Lootera too while at the Kalatop FRH. Such a poignant, haunting movie. Thanks for making my day, Parikhit.

  4. Hi, I am planning to travel there in December, I have one night extra, so planning to stay at Kalatop FRH.
    Is it safe for a family of three with a 10 year old girl? And do you have any contact?

  5. Hi Shubham,

    Do you have contact details to book the Forest Guest House. Also hows the connectivity there inside the Guest House and what were the charges of the Rooms ?

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